PC Sherdog PC Build/Buy Thread, v6: My Power Supply Burned Down My House


Okay, yeah, I like that Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, and make sure to get the V1. I've noticed a trend that pisses me off a bit the past few years, and it's that the MoBo manufacturers are often nerfing the V2 versions of motherboards. I think it's because they know most consumers will just see "V2" and make the reasonable assumption it's an upgrade, even if they're just assuming it carries the very minor upgrades of more recent components. Obvious profit margin strategy. The V2 is decidedly weaker despite the same price.

You can go with an AIO 280mm+ if you want, definitely not worth it for 240mm over the air coolers MySpot mentioned since there is basically parity. Two strategies. Either you're after the absolute best to limit thermal throttling to the bare minimum since these CPUs will run with whatevr you give them, or get the best value with the lowest probability of component failure (and damage from failure) with the air cooler. Considering how cheap and well-made the Thermalright 6+ heat pipe dual-fan options (there's almost always one for under $40 lately) it's just a great place to be for PC builders in 2025. You can look more into reviews of the specific one I chose, maybe there is something better under $50, I leave that to the forum. There is also an RGB version for a few dollars more if you prefer.

GPU. I like MSI for the 5090. The Gaming Trio OC is heavier, also had 3 fans, and offers a higher boost, so I presume it's superior within MSI's 5090 line to the identically priced Ventus.

For RAM I chose the Patriot venom because they seem to hit the sweet spot for value with a priority on MHz and latency. You can get the 32GB set, too, but I see no reason not to get 64GB looking forward since RAM is so cheap. This isn't a foolish "future proof" luxury. It's quite realistic that the most demanding games will start wanting that much before you're done with the comp the way we've seen RAM requirements rise over the years.

For the PSU I chose the Be Quiet since it was the lowest cost Tier A 1000W+ fully modular PSU. I don't know if you had the Corsair selected for iCue considerations although it was an HX, and I thought the AX line was the one that had the most bells and whistles as far as those more obscure digital controls. That's lighting stuff, I don't care about RGB, I never spend time watching YouTubes or reading about it. If you're after that, then get what you need to get.

For the SSD, I looked at 2TB, and the Samsung 990 Pro, WD SN850X, and specifically the Addlink A95 are the cheapest 4.0x4+ drives I'm seeing that include DRAM among the high-end drives (many more high-end drives don't, these days, but I still think DRAM is generally superior to HMB). None of these are crazy fast, but there's not really much difference, and really none at all to gaming. You could look at the Addlink G55H or Corsair MP700 Elite w/Heatsink in the 5.0x4 class for not a whole lot more, but then you might want to start looking at tests due to heat considerations. I mention the variants with heatsinks for a bit more if you really want to cook your motherboard with one of them.
1000W enough for the 5090?

Thank you so much for helping me.
 
I think I have all the info. Final thoughts on the CPU cooler? Any specific recommendations?
 
Air cooler is good, I've got the Evo version on my 7600X3D.
 
1000W enough for the 5090?

Thank you so much for helping me.
Yes, it's plenty, but if you want to spring for more, that's fine, too:

The Thermaltake Toughpower GF-3 is the cheapest according to the same criteria at 1200W+ ($1700). The Pure Power 1200W is $10 more than that. The HX1200i you spotted for $200 is the one you'd selected earlier that is a step above those for whatever the hell those digital features are in the iCue software. The "i", IIRC, is the designation for those digital integration features even if the AX is more premium.
 
One last thing. Should I get the 5080 instead? It's like $1,000.00 less. I know there's a fair distance in power between the two but for gaming what kind of disparity am I looking at?
 
One last thing. Should I get the 5080 instead? It's like $1,000.00 less. I know there's a fair distance in power between the two but for gaming what kind of disparity am I looking at?
What games do you primarily play?
 
Well I play lots. And I've wanted to play Cyberpunk maxed out for a while.

I got the 5090. I mean fuck it, let's do it. I should be able to pay the whole thing off well within a year
 
All of you guys thank you.

@Madmick you're my northern star when it comes to this stuff. I got everything you said except I bumped up the PSU a little.

@My Spot thank you for thr backup on MoBo and confirmation of cooler. Last one I used a liquid, kind of fun to go back to air coolers now
 
7800X3D and a 5080 would be more efficient.

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Sorry I didn't get back earlier, the Charlie Kirk stuff derailed me when I got on last night.

Yeah, that's it. Newegg was the retailer you should have seen recommended on PC Part Picker. That's what PCPP does, it lists every component across all vendors. You can filter out vendors you don't like to buy from or trust. You can also assign the % sales tax you pay in your state per vendor. This used to be much more significant, when sales taxes online weren't forced nationally, but there are still vendors who work around that will special membership cards and codes (ex. B&H). And it's still a useful feature to see your true total up front.

RAM is pretty neutral. Every brand gets their stuff from several major global manufacturers. Patriot has solid servicing and assembly of any aftermarket components before they ship to you such as with heat spreaders. This was the best value RAM I saw at the highest performance before costs for any further improvement in performance skyrocket.

Above this and you start looking for b-die, or the RAM sticks from the QVL list of your motherboard with confirmed insane speeds, but it's not a worthwhile expense.
 
Sorry I didn't get back earlier, the Charlie Kirk stuff derailed me when I got on last night.

Yeah, that's it. Newegg was the retailer you should have seen recommended on PC Part Picker. That's what PCPP does, it lists every component across all vendors. You can filter out vendors you don't like to buy from or trust. You can also assign the % sales tax you pay in your state per vendor. This used to be much more significant, when sales taxes online weren't forced nationally, but there are still vendors who work around that will special membership cards and codes (ex. B&H). And it's still a useful feature to see your true total up front.

RAM is pretty neutral. Every brand gets their stuff from several major global manufacturers. Patriot has solid servicing and assembly of any aftermarket components before they ship to you such as with heat spreaders. This was the best value RAM I saw at the highest performance before costs for any further improvement in performance skyrocket.

Above this and you start looking for b-die, or the RAM sticks from the QVL list of your motherboard with confirmed insane speeds, but it's not a worthwhile expense.
Yeah crazy shit going on with the Kirk thing. The cooler, SSD and PSU came last night. Mobo, memory and Windows come tomorrow and the GPU and CPU arrive next week.

Regarding the old rig-- I reseated the memory and nothing. I do have an old GTX 1080 I could put in to boot up if you think it's worth investigating. The original plan was for me to give my rig to my girl after I upgraded, I just was hoping to get some black friday sales
 
Yeah crazy shit going on with the Kirk thing. The cooler, SSD and PSU came last night. Mobo, memory and Windows come tomorrow and the GPU and CPU arrive next week.

Regarding the old rig-- I reseated the memory and nothing. I do have an old GTX 1080 I could put in to boot up if you think it's worth investigating. The original plan was for me to give my rig to my girl after I upgraded, I just was hoping to get some black friday sales
It didn't sound to me like the memory was the issue. You said "video" was giving you the red LED light. Whenever you're trying to find a problem you think is hardware related you try to isolate and test each component one by one. So I'd start with the GPU.
 
It didn't sound to me like the memory was the issue. You said "video" was giving you the red LED light. Whenever you're trying to find a problem you think is hardware related you try to isolate and test each component one by one. So I'd start with the GPU.
Thanks man. Much appreciated
 
I got the 5090. I mean fuck it, let's do it. I should be able to pay the whole thing off well within a year

Buying the highest end graphics card allows you to skip more newer GPU generation releases. However the 5090 has problems at the power connector and driver level. Where its retail cost is only justified for a select few power users. Making the risk versus reward not warrant its retail price. Where if the tower listed by others is correct. Its completely the wrong Pc case for a 5090.

With RAM, newly released AMD CPU series/motherboards have a reoccurring problem with not supporting their proper speed till 6-12 months post release. So its best to reference the motherboard manual for specific supported RAM modules.

What ive acquired through osmosis is that your build flows between practical to impractical, lol. Certain aspects of a fresh build make sense to spend more on. For those components can be brought over into newer future builds for decades, yes decades. Such as tower, case fans, power supply, storage device, headphones, mouse, keyboard and microphone. Even in the past five'sh years CPU heatsink manufacturers have begun offering upgrade kits for newly released socket types support. An with monitors, industry is currently in the process of hitting their display type limit.
 
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