PC Sherdog PC Build/Buy Thread, v6: My Power Supply Burned Down My House

[SwamiLeoni]

Received my PC yesterday. Beautiful machine, however, I got the 5080 grey screen of death. Absolutely nothing loads. I can get into the BIOS thought the motherboard HDMI but that doesn’t do me any good. Been struggling to figure out why. So far, this is what I’ve done:


System Troubleshooting Summary – April 19, 2025

PC & GPU Details:

• GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 5080 Gaming OC
• Motherboard: MSI PRO B850-P WiFi
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• RAM: 32GB DDR5 (2x16GB)
• Storage: Dual 2TB NVMe SSDs (4TB total)
• Power Supply: 1000W 80+ Gold Modular PSU
• Display Output: HDMI only
• OS: Attempting clean Windows 11 install (build 24H2)

Visual/Hardware Checks

• GPU is securely seated in PCIe x16 slot
• 12V-2x6 power cable is fully inserted (no signs of partial engagement)
• No blinking LEDs or warning indicators on GPU (per Gigabyte’s diagnostic LED system)
• RGB/branding on GPU is illuminated, confirming at least standby power
• PSU switch is in the ON position, cable tested and reinserted
• Verified all PSU modular cables are seated correctly
• Verified CPU cooler, case fans, and GPU fans power on

Display Troubleshooting

• Tested with multiple HDMI cables
• Tried multiple monitors (including a BenQ)
• Plugged directly into:
  • Motherboard HDMI (iGPU)
  • GPU HDMI port
• Only output received was via motherboard HDMI
• No display from GPU, even though it is powered

BIOS & Firmware

• Entered BIOS successfully (MSI Click BIOS X)
• Enabled PEG as primary graphics adapter
• Set Graphics Card Detection to “Enabled”
• Verified PCIe settings (PCIe Gen Auto → PCIe Gen 4)
• Re-checked Resize BAR and Secure Boot options
• Memory, CPU, and SSDs are detected properly
• BIOS is latest version as of March 13, 2025

Operating System Attempts

• Used Windows 11 Media Creation Tool and Rufus (twice):
  • Created bootable USB with GPT + UEFI (non-CSM) config
  • Used official Windows 11 24H2 ISO
• 
  
• Attempted to install to clean unallocated drive space
• Got repeated “Windows 11 installation has failed” errors
• Also encountered error: “Windows cannot complete installation in Safe Mode”
• Switched USB ports (2.0 and 3.0) during testing
• Verified drives were GPT with diskpart (Disk 0 and Disk 1 both clean and GPT)
• Tried diskpart cleaning and formatting steps multiple times

Safe Mode & Recovery Tests

• Able to boot into BIOS and Windows Recovery
• Occasionally hit grey screen or hang after MSI splash screen
• Reached Advanced Options → Command Prompt
• Attempted to manually run setup.exe from installation media
• Boot menu showed two partitions for USB, tried both
• Installation failed repeatedly near completion

Conclusion So Far

• All hardware appears powered
• GPU lights up, shows no diagnostic faults
• Windows 11 installation persistently fails even with multiple rebuilds of the USB
• System sometimes defaults to BIOS or hangs on splash/loading
• No POST or output ever seen from GPU HDMI port
• iGPU works temporarily but leads to Safe Mode loops or failed boots

 

[JBSchroeds]

Man, that sucks. Hope you get it figured out. Off the top of my head:

Have you tried installing/booting with the GPU completely removed from the system?

Do you have another system that you can put the GPU in and see if it gives you the same problem?

Have you run memtest? Memory issues can cause all sorts of weird shit. You might want to run a single stick with XMP turned off during troubleshooting.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

Man, that sucks. Hope you get it figured out. Off the top of my head:

Have you tried installing/booting with the GPU completely removed from the system?

Do you have another system that you can put the GPU in and see if it gives you the same problem?

Have you run memtest? Memory issues can cause all sorts of weird shit. You might want to run a single stick with XMP turned off during troubleshooting.

I haven’t done any of those. I did read that memory can cause some weird things to happen and someone recommended taking the sticks out and put them back on.

Unfortunately, I don’t have another system to try it one. I guess I can try to remove it and run it but I don’t want to void any warranty I have with CyberPower.

Some people online said the current power supply I’m using from the GPU to the PSU might be the issue and I should go with the standard one they send. The only problem with that is the GPU has a signal if there’s a power issue and there doesn’t seem to be anything blinking.

 

[JBSchroeds]

I haven’t done any of those. I did read that memory can cause some weird things to happen and someone recommended taking the sticks out and put them back on.

Unfortunately, I don’t have another system to try it one. I guess I can try to remove it and run it but I don’t want to void any warranty I have with CyberPower.

Some people online said the current power supply I’m using from the GPU to the PSU might be the issue and I should go with the standard one they send. The only problem with that is the GPU has a signal if there’s a power issue and there doesn’t seem to be anything blinking.

I'm not sure what CyberPower's warranty entails, but removing the card from the system and booting without it is 'low hanging fruit' when it comes to troubleshooting and I can't imagine it would void warranty. If you contact their customer support I suspect it would be among the first things they have you try after re-seating all connectors/components.

EDIT: I looked up their warranty (https://support.cyberpowerpc.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015111033-CyberPowerPC-com-Warranty-Policy) and it's very standard. The applicable line reads:
"Warranties do not cover [...] Products that are altered or repaired by anyone not authorized by Company,[...]"

That line, like the rest of the warranty, is intentionally written in a way that lets them wash their hands of virtually anything, if they so choose. It's not in the company's best interest to try and fuck you for performing basic troubleshooting, but the language is there that they can if they want. If you're skittish about it, definitely contact their support and do exactly what they tell you because then you are 'authorized by Company.'

 

[SwamiLeoni]

I'm not sure what CyberPower's warranty entails, but removing the card from the system and booting without it is 'low hanging fruit' when it comes to troubleshooting and I can't imagine it would void warranty. If you contact their customer support I suspect it would be among the first things they have you try after re-seating all connectors/components.

Good point. Can I just unplug the GPU from the power supply or do I need to physically remove the whole thing?

 

[JBSchroeds]

Good point. Can I just unplug the GPU from the power supply or do I need to physically remove the whole thing?

Check my edit above about the warranty, but you would want to remove the card entirely, not just unplug the power connectors. The PCIE slot itself supplies some power, so the card could do some very weird things if you still leave it in there. REMEMBER! Most motherboards have a locking mechanism at the end of the PCIE slot that you need to depress to unlock the card for removal. If you do not depress the latch and try and brute force the card you CAN DESTROY YOUR MOTHERBOARD. You may also need to remove screws from the rear bracket that hook the card into the case. Without screws and the latch depressed the card should wiggle out without much difficulty, and in some designs pressing the latch will pop the rear of the card out of the slot for you. If it feels like its fighting you, then something probably isn't right.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

Check my edit above about the warranty, but you would want to remove the card entirely, not just unplug the power connectors. The PCIE slot itself supplies some power, so the card could do some very weird things if you still leave it in there. REMEMBER! Most motherboards have a locking mechanism at the end of the PCIE slot that you need to depress to unlock the card for removal. If you do not depress the latch and try and brute force the card you CAN DESTROY YOUR MOTHERBOARD. You may also need to remove screws from the rear bracket that hook the card into the case. Without screws and the latch depressed the card should wiggle out without much difficulty, and in some designs pressing the latch will pop the rear of the card out of the slot for you. If it feels like its fighting you, then something probably isn't right.

Yea, I see the switch in the back. It clips forward and backward. Just need to figure out which way it goes lol. I’m out hunting eggs with the kids, but when I get home, I’ll give that a shot.

What exactly am I looking for going this route?

 

[JBSchroeds]

Yea, I see the switch in the back. It clips forward and backward. Just need to figure out which way it goes lol. I’m out hunting eggs with the kids, but when I get home, I’ll give that a shot.

What exactly am I looking for going this route?

Check page 14 of the manual for info about the slot:

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-B850-P-WIFI/support#manual

The lever needs to be depressed to remove the card and when the card is fully seated it looks like the lever gets pushed into an up-and-locked position.

By removing the card from the system you are minimizing the number of things that could be causing your boot issue. That's the same reason I suggested running one stick of RAM with XMP turned off: less things to go wrong. You're trying to isolate what's causing the problem. At this point it could be almost anything (though the lack of any video output from the GPU strongly suggests something is wrong with the card). If it boots/installs without the GPU, then that's probably what's causing the problem. There would be followup steps after that to further rule out other related problems (such as a possible dead PCIE slot on the MOBO), but trying without the card would come first.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

Check page 14 of the manual for info about the slot:

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-B850-P-WIFI/support#manual

The lever needs to be depressed to remove the card and when the card is fully seated it looks like the lever gets pushed into an up-and-locked position.

By removing the card from the system you are minimizing the number of things that could be causing your boot issue. That's the same reason I suggested running one stick of RAM with XMP turned off: less things to go wrong. You're trying to isolate what's causing the problem. At this point it could be almost anything (though the lack of any video output from the GPU strongly suggests something is wrong with the card). If it boots/installs without the GPU, then that's probably what's causing the problem. There would be followup steps after that to further rule out other related problems (such as a possible dead PCIE slot on the MOBO), but trying without the card would come first.

Got it. Process of elimination. Really hope I didn’t get a bad card because they’re a month out from what I’ve read. But to be honest, the board might be worse because it seems like a major pain in the ass to put everything in.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

Very interesting @JBSchroeds. I took it out and was able to fully install Windows. Prior to that, it failed on every attempt via USB. Going to keep pushing here. Will keep you posted.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

Ok, plugged the GPU back in and we’re back to black screens.

• GPU removed = Windows boots fine
• GPU inserted = no display output from any port, even before Windows starts

 

[Madmick]

Ok, plugged the GPU back in and we’re back to black screens.

• GPU removed = Windows boots fine
• GPU inserted = no display output from any port, even before Windows starts

That strongly suggests the GPU is defective, unfortunately.

 

[JBSchroeds]

Ok, plugged the GPU back in and we’re back to black screens.

• GPU removed = Windows boots fine
• GPU inserted = no display output from any port, even before Windows starts

Yup, card is very likely no good. There are two additional things you might want to try:

First, your GPU is a dual-BIOS card, with a regular and a silent profile. Try moving the BIOS switch to the other side and see if you get the same result with both profiles. If one works and the other doesn't then one of the card's BIOS (not the motherboard, the GPU also has its own BIOS) is corrupt. If one of the profiles does work then you may be able to continue using the card while CyberPower processes your warranty claim. I'd rate this possibility as very low, but the only thing you have to do to test it is flip a switch.

Second, put the card into one of the other PCIE slots to rule out that it's not the motherboard slot that's bad. The other slots aren't as fast as the top one, but most PCIE devices are both backwards and downwards compatible (i.e. a 5.0 device will work in a 4.0 slot and an x16 device will work in a x8 slot, it's just that performance will be reduced). So if the card works in one of the lower slots then it's a MOBO issue, not the card. Unlikely, but possible and worth testing so that you don't get a replacement GPU only to have the same thing happen because it's actually the motherboard that's fucked.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

Yup, card is very likely no good. There are two additional things you might want to try:

First, your GPU is a dual-BIOS card, with a regular and a silent profile. Try moving the BIOS switch to the other side and see if you get the same result with both profiles. If one works and the other doesn't then one of the card's BIOS (not the motherboard, the GPU also has its own BIOS) is corrupt. If one of the profiles does work then you may be able to continue using the card while CyberPower processes your warranty claim. I'd rate this possibility as very low, but the only thing you have to do to test it is flip a switch.

Second, put the card into one of the other PCIE slots to rule out that it's not the motherboard slot that's bad. The other slots aren't as fast as the top one, but most PCIE devices are both backwards and downwards compatible (i.e. a 5.0 device will work in a 4.0 slot and an x16 device will work in a x8 slot, it's just that performance will be reduced). So if the card works in one of the lower slots then it's a MOBO issue, not the card. Unlikely, but possible and worth testing so that you don't get a replacement GPU only to have the same thing happen because it's actually the motherboard that's fucked.

I'll give both of those a shot. I'm planning on installing the NVIDIA drivers after I remove the GPU again.

I did come across this video and I've read of other people having success switching power chords. Basically, the cable that comes with it could be defective or not giving the GPU enough power. It sounds like he has the same issue and he used the 12VHPWR cable and it worked for him.

 

[Madmick]

Yup, card is very likely no good. There are two additional things you might want to try:

First, your GPU is a dual-BIOS card, with a regular and a silent profile. Try moving the BIOS switch to the other side and see if you get the same result with both profiles. If one works and the other doesn't then one of the card's BIOS (not the motherboard, the GPU also has its own BIOS) is corrupt. If one of the profiles does work then you may be able to continue using the card while CyberPower processes your warranty claim. I'd rate this possibility as very low, but the only thing you have to do to test it is flip a switch.

Second, put the card into one of the other PCIE slots to rule out that it's not the motherboard slot that's bad. The other slots aren't as fast as the top one, but most PCIE devices are both backwards and downwards compatible (i.e. a 5.0 device will work in a 4.0 slot and an x16 device will work in a x8 slot, it's just that performance will be reduced). So if the card works in one of the lower slots then it's a MOBO issue, not the card. Unlikely, but possible and worth testing so that you don't get a replacement GPU only to have the same thing happen because it's actually the motherboard that's fucked.

When I came into the thread and I was catching up my first hope was that maybe he had a corrupt BIOS installation. Because it sounded like he was trying to run a fresh installation of Windows, but it wouldn't complete. I was hoping the cultprit was the motherboard, and was caused by a faulty BIOS, not the GPU. But when he later said he could get Windows to boot normally via the iGPU, I breathed a sigh of despair, because any other point of failure being the cause is a moonshot, now.

I'd actually dealt with a bad BIOS myself recently when I had a stalled critical update that wouldn't complete. Thankfully, these modern motherboards apparently maintain an image of the last good BIOS because I was able to use the multi-fail startup fallback to boot into BIOS despite that the system wouldn't even post an image, nor were typical functions operational (I mean I couldn't even use the function key I knew from memory to go to BIOS after hitting the power button).

So after several stalled startups, and I mean stalled for like 5+ minutes, Windows automatically goes to its bluescreen, and offers a recovery choice to boot directly into BIOS. You do that, and it appears to trigger a protocol where it boots into BIOS, but the old BIOS, the last good one. From there, I was able to reinstall the latest BIOS, and it installed successfully that time. Next bootup everything was back to normal. Breathed a sigh of relief, and remembered to be very grateful to software engineers who have made that sort of recovery possible. What a tremendous service they've provided to us.

 

[JBSchroeds]

I'll give both of those a shot. I'm planning on installing the NVIDIA drivers after I remove the GPU again.

I did come across this video and I've read of other people having success switching power chords. Basically, the cable that comes with it could be defective or not giving the GPU enough power. It sounds like he has the same issue and he used the 12VHPWR cable and it worked for him.

So, 12V High Power is the type of power connector on your GPU. It's a newer standard than the 6/8-Pin PCIE connectors found on all AMD, Intel, and older nVidia cards. The PSU likely has it's own matching connector and its one cable to connect the PSU to the GPU, 12VHPWR to 12VHPWR. This connector, unfortunately, sucks. It's been the source of a ton of issues over the last two generations of nVidia cards. In addition to a single cable, there's also adapters that lets you connect three 8-Pin PCIE power cords into the single 12VHPWR connector.

I don't know how your machine came configured or what cords were included. I assume it shipped with the single 12VHPWR-to-12VHPWR cord installed because that's what the card is designed for and its way easier to cable manage. It is possible, if they shipped all of the usual accessories that come with these components, that you also have an adapter and 3x PCIE cords. If so, trying the alternate set of cables is another thing you could try.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

So, 12V High Power is the type of power connector on your GPU. It's a newer standard than the 6/8-Pin PCIE connectors found on all AMD, Intel, and older nVidia cards. The PSU likely has it's own matching connector and its one cable to connect the PSU to the GPU, 12VHPWR to 12VHPWR. This connector, unfortunately, sucks. It's been the source of a ton of issues over the last two generations of nVidia cards. In addition to a single cable, there's also adapters that lets you connect three 8-Pin PCIE power cords into the single 12VHPWR connector.

I don't know how your machine came configured or what cords were included. I assume it shipped with the single 12VHPWR-to-12VHPWR cord installed because that's what the card is designed for and its way easier to cable manage. It is possible, if they shipped all of the usual accessories that come with these components, that you also have an adapter and 3x PCIE cords. If so, trying the alternate set of cables is another thing you could try.

I have the one that came installed and I also have these two. One has 1 12 pin with 3 8 pins and the other is just 3 8 pins. Not even sure if I should give this a go as it’s all completely plugged in nicely and I could easily mess something up. But there are tons of videos out there.

Also, my Gigbyte OC doesn’t have a Bios switch unfortunately.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

Well, another twist in this shitshow. I plugged the GPU into the next slot down, rebooted and nothing happened. Then, I restarted the PC with my HDMI into the motherboard and it brought me to Windows and is now downloading the NVIDIA drivers.

So does that mean my first PCIE is toast?

 

[JBSchroeds]

I have the one that came installed and I also have these two. One has 1 12 pin with 3 8 pins and the other is just 3 8 pins. Not even sure if I should give this a go as it’s all completely plugged in nicely and I could easily mess something up. But there are tons of videos out there.

Also, my Gigbyte OC doesn’t have a Bios switch unfortunately.

View attachment 1091807

Ah, I see. You would need a second one of those cables on the bottom to use that adapter on the top. For that bottom cable, the single plug end goes into the PSU and then the other end has two 6+2 PCIE connectors. So to fully populate the three plug adapter you need a second of those PSU cable.

As for the dual BIOS, it showed on the product page when I googled your specs, but if it doesn't have one then it doesn't have one.

Well, another twist in this shitshow. I plugged the GPU into the next slot down, rebooted and nothing happened. Then, I restarted the PC with my HDMI into the motherboard and it brought me to Windows and is now downloading the NVIDIA drivers.

So does that mean my first PCIE is toast?

After the drivers install you should shutdown, swap the HDMI to the GPU, and turn it back on. If it works, then it may in fact be your motherboard that needs replacing.

 

[SwamiLeoni]

Ah, I see. You would need a second one of those cables on the bottom to use that adapter on the top. For that bottom cable, the single plug end goes into the PSU and then the other end has two 6+2 PCIE connectors. So to fully populate the three plug adapter you need a second of those PSU cable.

Thanks, I'll pick some of those wires up. Need to make sure I find the right ones on Amazon.

After the drivers install you should shutdown, swap the HDMI to the GPU, and turn it back on. If it works, then it may in fact be your motherboard that needs replacing.

Ok, I may have spoke too soon. Windows worked through the motherboard while the GPU was in the PC. I was able to download the drivers...kind of. The system said they were downloaded and when I went to the NVIDIA hub to look at the system, it kept telling me I needed to install the drivers. I reset my computer and it didn't boot right into windows, I had to restart it a few times. Once it worked, I installed the drivers again and the same thing happened. Needless to say, nothing came out of the GPU, it was all motherboard.

What a shitshow this is lol. I already put in a ticket with CyberPower. It honestly sounds like it could be several things (shipping, the actual card, the power supply etc). They have a solid warranty so hopefully they'll just ship me another 5080 and I can send this one back. I don't want to ship the entire PC out.