Big meat cleaver I just finished making

[Fzubek]

Damn, what a unit! Don't know shit about knives, but that looks very nice.

 

[HARRISON_3]

Very cool, dude.

 

[fungi]

Wtf is "NOKIA ZEISS"?

Beautiful piece of work, btw.

 

[Einar]

Wtf is "NOKIA ZEISS"?

Beautiful piece of work, btw.

Lol, that is my Nokia phone subtly watermarking the pics. I'm sure theres a way of removing it, but I havent looked into it.

 

[Einar]

Nice chunk of metal. I've wanted a cleaver for a while though I don't eat meat...

What did you do to make sure it's weighted/balanced properly?

Cleavers are supposed to be blade heavy, so I have done nothing to balance it, apart from keeping the tang full width and full thickness. It wants to chop.

 

[Einar]

havent read the rest of the thread but do you sell these?

That is an amazing piece of work.
Would you consider selling it?

That is badass. Ever want to take orders let us know.

Thank you! I do not sell them. I might reach a point where I am comfortable selling my wares, but I'm not there yet.

 

[Einar]

Do you have any pics of any other pieces you've done? That cleaver is something to be proud of.

Thank you! Yes, sure, here are some others that I made.

My main interest is historical knives and swords. I was an archaeology student once upon a time and specialized in that subject.

My first three blades; from the left a small saber loosely based on burmese Dha. A "broken back Seax" which was a popular knife around the viking age. This one has an 18 inch blade, but they ranged from small knives like the one to the right of it, all the way up to full sword length. I believe the biggest one found has a 30 inch blade.

Heres a different type of seax, a so called narrowseax. Single edge full flat grind, 18 inch blade, 25 inch overall. 1/4 inch thick at the spine.

Chef's knife, 12 inch blade. Made this one for my nephew for christmas.

And a couple of huge camp choppers, both are 1/4 inch thick with blades around 15 inches.

 

[Otto!]

Very nice work!

 

[irish_thug]

Thank you! Yes, sure, here are some others that I made.

My main interest is historical knives and swords. I was an archaeology student once upon a time and specialized in that subject.

My first three blades; from the left a small saber loosely based on burmese Dha. A "broken back Seax" which was a popular knife around the viking age. This one has an 18 inch blade, but they ranged from small knives like the one to the right of it, all the way up to full sword length. I believe the biggest one found has a 30 inch blade.

Heres a different type of seax, a so called narrowseax. Single edge full flat grind, 18 inch blade, 25 inch overall. 1/4 inch thick at the spine.

Chef's knife, 12 inch blade. Made this one for my nephew for christmas.

And a couple of huge camp choppers, both are 1/4 inch thick with blades around 15 inches.

Very nice work. I would appreciate it if you make anything new, tag me when you post it. Fine workmanship.

I'm quite jealous.

 

[Iroh]

Love that show!

 

[fungi]

Lol, that is my Nokia phone subtly watermarking the pics. I'm sure theres a way of removing it, but I havent looked into it.

Those sneaky nokiases...

 

[fungi]

Thank you! Yes, sure, here are some others that I made.

My main interest is historical knives and swords. I was an archaeology student once upon a time and specialized in that subject.

My first three blades; from the left a small saber loosely based on burmese Dha. A "broken back Seax" which was a popular knife around the viking age. This one has an 18 inch blade, but they ranged from small knives like the one to the right of it, all the way up to full sword length. I believe the biggest one found has a 30 inch blade.

Heres a different type of seax, a so called narrowseax. Single edge full flat grind, 18 inch blade, 25 inch overall. 1/4 inch thick at the spine.

Chef's knife, 12 inch blade. Made this one for my nephew for christmas.

And a couple of huge camp choppers, both are 1/4 inch thick with blades around 15 inches.

DANG¡¡!!!!!!!!
Mang, you rocked those!

I wish I had the skill and the patience to make such.

Beautiful pieces!

 

[JOE QUEEF]

I had to do the normalising and quenching twice, becuase the blade warped in the quench, bending to one side, so I had to straighten it on my anvil and try again.

j/k, j/k.

Nice choil, btw.

I'm quite jealous.

 

[Einar]

Very nice work. I would appreciate it if you make anything new, tag me when you post it. Fine workmanship.

I'm quite jealous.

Thank you. I'll try to remember tagging you, sir.

 

[Einar]

DANG¡¡!!!!!!!!
Mang, you rocked those!

I wish I had the skill and the patience to make such.

Beautiful pieces!

Honestly, patience is more of a factor than skill in my case. I take my time and dont stop until i'm happy with the result.

 

[Einar]

j/k, j/k.

Nice choil, btw.

I'm quite jealous.

Any time a blade comes out of the quench with no warp I do a manly fistpump and breathe a sigh of relief. Warps can usually ve fixed though.

This on the other hand...

...cracked in three places. No saving this one.

 

[JOE QUEEF]

Any time a blade comes out of the quench with no warp I do a manly fistpump and breathe a sigh of relief. Warps can usually ve fixed though.

This on the other hand...

...cracked in three places. No saving this one.

Why not an oil quench? Because of the type of steel?

 

[TrumpSupporter]

Heres a cleaver I just finished. I wanted to make a real beast of a meat cleaver from 10 mm stock. I hated working on this thing by the end. It'll be going to a good home with a friend of mine who is quite a carnivore.


Spring steel blade, beech burl handle.

Blade length 12" (30cm)

Blade width 4" (10cm)

Total length 17.3" (44cm)

Thickness 3/8" (9.5 mm) full flat grind down to 3/16" (4.7 mm) before the cutting edge.

you should put it on ebay for people to bid on. or just send it to me, I got some country pork ribs i need to murder

 

[Einar]

Why not an oil quench? Because of the type of steel?

Mostly because on the kinds of long single edge blades i make, the water quench gives them a nice curve. If you lok at the short saber i posted earlier in the thread, that was a completely straight blade when it went into the quench, and came out with a nice, gentle curve. With oil qunching, blades tend to curve the other way, towards the edge like a scythe. I never had any problems with water quenching before, so thats just what I have continued doing. But after the cracked chef's knife, I am goint to start using oil for shorter blades where reverse curving wont be much of an issue.

 

[Uber_Noober]

Love the handle, the whole piece is really amazing.