Big meat cleaver I just finished making

[JJ Frog]

Does it kill?

 

[Protectandserve]

This was my latest.

 

[evergreenrider]

Beautiful work. Do you make sets? Would possibly be interested

 

[DragRacer]

What’d that thing weigh?

 

[Einar]

This was my latest.

Nice one! I need to make another attempt at a hamon. My first didnt really work out very well.

 

[Einar]

Beautiful work. Do you make sets? Would possibly be interested

Thanks. I dont sell my stuff. I only make knives as a hobby, and occasionally give them as gifts to friends and family.

 

[Einar]

What’d that thing weigh?

I didnt weigh it before my friend came to pick it up, but I would guess its in the 3.5 lbs area.

 

[genecop]

Very nice workmanship....well done

 

[Cantona7]

Heres a cleaver I just finished. I wanted to make a real beast of a meat cleaver from 10 mm stock. I hated working on this thing by the end. It'll be going to a good home with a friend of mine who is quite a carnivore.


Spring steel blade, beech burl handle.

Blade length 12" (30cm)

Blade width 4" (10cm)

Total length 17.3" (44cm)

Thickness 3/8" (9.5 mm) full flat grind down to 3/16" (4.7 mm) before the cutting edge.

That’s super-cool, your friend is very lucky to be the recipient of a piece like that.

 

[DragRacer]

I love it.

I didnt weigh it before my friend came to pick it up, but I would guess its in the 3.5 lbs area.

 

[Jack Stevonovich]

@Einar is it possible to make a superb culinary grade cleaver that also doubles as a throwing cleaver?

 

[Einar]

@Einar is it possible to make a superb culinary grade cleaver that also doubles as a throwing cleaver?

I'm not an expert on throwing kitchen utensils around, but I'm prety sure cleavers would make fine throwing weapons. So yes.

 

[badascan]

Nice chunk of metal. I've wanted a cleaver for a while though I don't eat meat...

What did you do to make sure it's weighted/balanced properly?

 

[Streeter]

Will it cut

 

[Cool Hand Luke]

Heres a cleaver I just finished. I wanted to make a real beast of a meat cleaver from 10 mm stock. I hated working on this thing by the end. It'll be going to a good home with a friend of mine who is quite a carnivore.


Spring steel blade, beech burl handle.

Blade length 12" (30cm)

Blade width 4" (10cm)

Total length 17.3" (44cm)

Thickness 3/8" (9.5 mm) full flat grind down to 3/16" (4.7 mm) before the cutting edge.

havent read the rest of the thread but do you sell these?

 

[Benny Viper]

Badass. Bill the butcher would approve.

 

[BisexualMMA]

Sure.

Its made from spring steel, which is very tough, which is needed since this is meant to go through bone.
I mostly use stock removal, so the shape is roughly cut with an angle grinder and refined on my belt grinder.
Once I have drilled the holes for the handle pins and the big hanger hole at the end, the real work begins of grinding the flats. Since I used such thick stock I felt I had to taper the flats down to about half thickness before making the edge, or it would be just too thick and heavy. The spine is twice as thick as most cleavers you would buy.

After grinding the flat, I normalise the blade 3 times in my forge to releave any stresses in the steel and refine the grain structure before hardening.

Hardening is done by heating up the entire blade to about 1500 F and quenching it in water. I had to do the normalising and quenching twice, becuase the blade warped in the quench, bending to one side, so I had to straighten it on my anvil and try again.

After the quench, The blade is very hard but also brittle, so it needs to be tempered. I temper for 2 hours in my kitchen oven, at about 430 F. This draws back the hardness a little and gives the steel the spring steel toughness I want.

Then, I finish the grinding process, make and attach the handle scales, sharpen the blade to hair popping sharp and then stain and oil the handle.

Brenda Wyatt approves.

 

[mon]

Sure.

Its made from spring steel, which is very tough, which is needed since this is meant to go through bone.
I mostly use stock removal, so the shape is roughly cut with an angle grinder and refined on my belt grinder.
Once I have drilled the holes for the handle pins and the big hanger hole at the end, the real work begins of grinding the flats. Since I used such thick stock I felt I had to taper the flats down to about half thickness before making the edge, or it would be just too thick and heavy. The spine is twice as thick as most cleavers you would buy.

After grinding the flat, I normalise the blade 3 times in my forge to releave any stresses in the steel and refine the grain structure before hardening.

Hardening is done by heating up the entire blade to about 1500 F and quenching it in water. I had to do the normalising and quenching twice, becuase the blade warped in the quench, bending to one side, so I had to straighten it on my anvil and try again.

After the quench, The blade is very hard but also brittle, so it needs to be tempered. I temper for 2 hours in my kitchen oven, at about 430 F. This draws back the hardness a little and gives the steel the spring steel toughness I want.

Then, I finish the grinding process, make and attach the handle scales, sharpen the blade to hair popping sharp and then stain and oil the handle.

That is an amazing piece of work.
Would you consider selling it?

 

[Smokes]

That is badass. Ever want to take orders let us know.

 

[irish_thug]

Thanks. I dont sell my stuff. I only make knives as a hobby, and occasionally give them as gifts to friends and family.

Do you have any pics of any other pieces you've done? That cleaver is something to be proud of.