URGENT: need pricing advice on sw 357 magnum

Aluminum Kam

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Is $500 too much to pay for a used smith and wesson 357 with a 2 inch barrel 6 shooter with a hammer? And is $650 is too much for a new one with a 5 barrel without a hammer?
 
What kind of condition is the used one in? How pronounced is the cylinder ring? What model are they?
 
Also when you cock the hammer on the used one, does the cylinder lock tightly or is there some play? Have you checked the cylinder for erosion from someone shooting a ton of .38 specials?
 
I would not pay $500.00 for a revolver whether it was brand new, gold plated or otherwise.

If you pay more that $350.00 you are taking it up the ass!

That is all.
 
I would not pay $500.00 for a revolver whether it was brand new, gold plated or otherwise.

If you pay more that $350.00 you are taking it up the ass!

That is all.

That's hardly an opinion backed with facts...

Aren't you the same guy who put 1500 in a mil-spec? Everyone has their own preferences, but it's hardly reasonable to argue that a chopped up 1911 is worth 5 times as much as a good wheel gun.

That is all.
 
What kind of condition is the used one in? How pronounced is the cylinder ring? What model are they?

it is in pretty good condition, It had a knick in the front a small one from being dropped, but it checked out decent, now i dont know shit about handguns, but i did try to look it over carefully, he said it hadnt been fired much, just carried alot.

when i checked the hammer it all seemed to be in fine condition., but tell me what else to look at and i shall,

as for the new one, it doesnt seem bad for 650 right? he said Taurus made shitty guns, and by looking at S&Ws website the price seemed reasonable for either.

the reason i want the new one slightly more is because i have a phobia of the hammer getting pulled back on my clothing or something another by accident.

also i beleive the new one is a model 640, I BELIEVE but it isnt the shiny kind of ****l finish, more of the dull... and the used looks sorta the same only all black, and a 6 shooter, not sure how much older though, doesnt look too old
 
650 is between 75 and 125 too much for the model 640.
 
That's hardly an opinion backed with facts...

Aren't you the same guy who put 1500 in a mil-spec? Everyone has their own preferences, but it's hardly reasonable to argue that a chopped up 1911 is worth 5 times as much as a good wheel gun.

Facts! FACTS! Fer Fuck Sakes who goes out looking for a wheel gun these days, Short of a collector? There are so many good Semi Autos on the market in the $360-$500.00 range its not even funny! The statement Sir, is self-fucking evident!

Unless there is some fantasy reason to own a SW revolver, like you wanna be Dirty Harry or something, It is not that great. It's not as controllable, not as reliable, over-penetrates like a Mo-fo, and you gotta be skilled to get one of those reloaded fast, compared to a semi-auto.

Unless it is a great, deal don't buy it. Get an Auto.

Yes, I'm the one who put $1500.00 in what started as a Mil Spec. I needed a good forged slide and reciever, and that's what I got, for my base. Unless you have owned a fully customized gun please do not try to internet argue its worth compared to a stock gun. They are in two different leagues.
 
Facts! FACTS! Fer Fuck Sakes who goes out looking for a wheel gun these days, Short of a collector?

Apparently the thread starter does. Also, those of us who hunt with handguns, cowboy action shooters, and a significant portion of those with conceal and carry permits. That's who.


There are so many good Semi Autos on the market in the $360-$500.00 range its not even funny! The statement Sir, is self-fucking evident!

Unless there is some fantasy reason to own a SW revolver, like you wanna be Dirty Harry or something, It is not that great. It's not as controllable, not as reliable, over-penetrates like a Mo-fo, and you gotta be skilled to get one of those reloaded fast, compared to a semi-auto.

A .357 mag is NOT uncontrollable. Revolvers are more reliable than autos as a whole. Less moving parts, no chance that an ejecting case will become jammed in the slide. Over-penetration is a function of the type of ammunition used. There are several factory loaded .357 rounds that come with frangible bullets.

Also, Dirty Harry used a .44 mag, not a .357 mag.

While I would rather have a ruger than a S+W (due almost entirely to S+W's pandering to Clinton and the lack of frame strength) they are reliable weapon.

Unless it is a great, deal don't buy it. Get an Auto.

I say he should get what he feels most comfortable with.


Yes, I'm the one who put $1500.00 in what started as a Mil Spec. I needed a good forged slide and reciever, and that's what I got, for my base. Unless you have owned a fully customized gun please do not try to internet argue its worth compared to a stock gun. They are in two different leagues.

There are several brands of factory customs in that price range. I realize that your choices were limited back in the early 80's though.

Do you act like a pretentious ass in person when talking to people about guns, or just on the internet? I flame as much as anyone, but I like guns and try to base my opinions in this subforum on fact and not personal attacks and blanket statements.
 
Revolvers are more reliable than autos as a whole. Less moving parts, no chance that an ejecting case will become jammed in the slide.

Sure they are.

You mentioned something about facts to back up a blanket statement..?

One simple question? What do you do when your cylinder locks up? What is the immediate action drill that get's you back into the fight when that happens? Please tell me I must know.


Do you act like a pretentious ass in person when talking to people about guns, or just on the internet? I flame as much as anyone, but I like guns and try to base my opinions in this subforum on fact and not personal attacks and blanket statements.


I don't recall attacking you personally, however and due to you delicate sensibilities, I shall cease desist incase this is all too much for you to handle.

Thanks a bunch.

Nice talking with ya.....
 
Sure they are.

You mentioned something about facts to back up a blanket statement..?

One simple question? What do you do when your cylinder locks up? What is the immediate action drill that get's you back into the fight when that happens? Please tell me I must know.





I don't recall attacking you personally, however and due to you delicate sensibilities, I shall cease desist incase this is all too much for you to handle.

Thanks a bunch.

Nice talking with ya.....
first of all i took your advice and found a ruger conceal carry 2-inch, .357, 5-loader

Lord Jesus did the 357 pack a fucking punch, my first time shooting, and it freaking scared me


is around 550 a cool price for a glock? they looked like compact 9mm and a 40, not too much bigger overall than the 2inch 357.
 
http://www.recguns.com/Sources/IVD.html

http://www.gunweek.com/2005/feature0620.html

Oh, and in my limited experience with revolvers I have found that keeping the ejector rod screwed tightly into the cylinder avoids jams.

first of all i took your advice and found a ruger conceal carry 2-inch, .357, 5-loader

Lord Jesus did the 357 pack a fucking punch, my first time shooting, and it freaking scared me


is around 550 a cool price for a glock? they looked like compact 9mm and a 40, not too much bigger overall than the 2inch 357.

Had you ever fired a handgun before?
 
The .357 Mag is the ultimate man stopper, semi autos have tried but have not come close to the capabilities of the gold ol' 357 six shooter.
 
first of all i took your advice and found a ruger conceal carry 2-inch, .357, 5-loader

Lord Jesus did the 357 pack a fucking punch, my first time shooting, and it freaking scared me


is around 550 a cool price for a glock? they looked like compact 9mm and a 40, not too much bigger overall than the 2inch 357.

Is this a New Glock you're talking about? Prices seem to vary a bit between dealers and their locations throughout the Country. Seems like $500-$600 for new. $400.00 for a used one.

Glocks are a bit wide in the slide, if conceal carry is you motivation. There probably are other autos with a narrower profile, particularly in the 9mm variety.

I had the chance to own a glock once, but inevitably decided against it, however plus side to Glocks are:

they are reliable
you can get a decent trigger job done on them
they are as accurate as most will likey shoot with a pistol.

On the minus,

They are wide as an aircraft carrier.
all the idiot Gangstas/wiggers have them.
they are ugly faceless pieces of pressed-****ll and plastic.


****l the word above is ****l. Why are they censoring the word ****l?


But they are function over form though.

If you buy a Dillon reloader, and start shooting and training with whatever you intend to get I would say might as well go with a 40 cal or 45. If you do not intend, or cannot practice as much get the 9mm, as you'll be able to deal with the recoil a liitle better, and the ammo is cheaper to buy.

As a rule , the more recoil, the more practice it takes to be as fast an accurate.
 
The .357 Mag is the ultimate man stopper, semi autos have tried but have not come close to the capabilities of the gold ol' 357 six shooter.

Not true.

All load data below is for Golden Saber (remington) Personal Protection loads:

.357 mag 125gr 1220fps(muzzle) 413ft/lbs(muzzle)
.40SW 165gr 1150fps(muzzle) 485ft/lbs(muzzle)
.45auto+P 185gr 1140fps(muzzle) 534ft/lbs(muzzle)


All load data below is for HydraShok (federal) rounds

.357 mag 158gr 1240fps(muzzle) 539ft/lbs(muzzle)
.40SW 155gr 1140fps(muzzle) 447ft/lbs(muzzle)
.357SIG 125gr 1350fps(muzzle) 506ft/lbs(muzzle) - This is a JHP, not HydraShok



All load data below is for Super-X ST HP (winchester)

.357 mag 145gr 1290fps(muzzle) 535ft/lbs(muzzle)
.40SW 155gr 1205fps(muzzle) 500ft/lbs(muzzle)
.45auto 185gr 1000fps(muzzle) 411ft/lbs(muzzle)
.357SIG 125gr 1350fps(muzzle) 506ft/lbs(muzzle)


I personally use the Winchester round above in my G23. (.40)

In short, depending on the ammunition used, the .40SW, .45 auto, and .357sig are all as powerful as the .357mag when comparing factory loaded personal defense rounds. Plus the auto loaders hold twice as many rounds.
 
Hey Chesten_Hesten, I used to think that Glocks were a lot wider than other brands. I looked on their website before I bought my G23 and was surprised to see that they're a bit narrower than the 1911 compacts I was looking at. In fact, the only pistol that I remember being narrower was the H&K USP compact. KAHR's may have been a bit narrower too.

I think it's the square slide that makes them seem wider than they are. I bought a Kramer horsehide scabbard for mine and can easily conceal it with a jacket or sweatshirt.
 
Hey Chesten_Hesten, I used to think that Glocks were a lot wider than other brands. I looked on their website before I bought my G23 and was surprised to see that they're a bit narrower than the 1911 compacts I was looking at. In fact, the only pistol that I remember being narrower was the H&K USP compact. KAHR's may have been a bit narrower too.

I think it's the square slide that makes them seem wider than they are. I bought a Kramer horsehide scabbard for mine and can easily conceal it with a jacket or sweatshirt.

Could be, Could be. I've never mic'd one to compare the actual width, but definitely the square slide adds to the perception.

I see many of the shooters around here taking a drimel tool to the handle to narrow up the grip. I wouldn't have the heart to mangle one up myself, but it does make the grip less bulky.

Taking a caliper to my 1911 says the slide width is .92 of an inch. 9/10ths basically, measured just in front of the chamber.

What's the Glock?
 
I think the Glock is fraction over 1". The kimbers I was looking at said they were 1.25" I think. Of course that could have been the frame width and not the slide...

The fact that Glocks are the same width for the whole height of the slide adds to the illusion.

Let me see if I can find some links...
 
Not true.

All load data below is for Golden Saber (remington) Personal Protection loads:

.357 mag 125gr 1220fps(muzzle) 413ft/lbs(muzzle)
.40SW 165gr 1150fps(muzzle) 485ft/lbs(muzzle)
.45auto+P 185gr 1140fps(muzzle) 534ft/lbs(muzzle)


All load data below is for HydraShok (federal) rounds

.357 mag 158gr 1240fps(muzzle) 539ft/lbs(muzzle)
.40SW 155gr 1140fps(muzzle) 447ft/lbs(muzzle)
.357SIG 125gr 1350fps(muzzle) 506ft/lbs(muzzle) - This is a JHP, not HydraShok



All load data below is for Super-X ST HP (winchester)

.357 mag 145gr 1290fps(muzzle) 535ft/lbs(muzzle)
.40SW 155gr 1205fps(muzzle) 500ft/lbs(muzzle)
.45auto 185gr 1000fps(muzzle) 411ft/lbs(muzzle)
.357SIG 125gr 1350fps(muzzle) 506ft/lbs(muzzle)


I personally use the Winchester round above in my G23. (.40)

In short, depending on the ammunition used, the .40SW, .45 auto, and .357sig are all as powerful as the .357mag when comparing factory loaded personal defense rounds. Plus the auto loaders hold twice as many rounds.

Please, The only auto pistol that round that comes close in ballistics is the 10mm auto. I bet you believe a 9mm is a sufficient man stopper.
 
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