PC Sherdog PC Build/Buy Thread, v6: My Power Supply Burned Down My House

[Neph]

Does anyone else remember the specs of the first PC you built?

CPU: AMD K6-2 400mhz
RAM: 64mb PC100
HDD: 8.6gb 5400rpm
GPU: Voodoo 3 3000 16mb
14" Packard Bell 640x480 monitor
Mobo with a whopping 2 USB ports

I wish I'd kept it all these years later.

I don't know the full specs but it was like this:

33Mhz 386
2-4 MB of RAM (a guess)
Probably <100 MB of HDD space (I'm guessing 40 to 80 MB)
No graphics card
5 1/4" and 3 1/2" disc drives
Colour monitor (unknown specs)

I remember when Ultima 7 came out and it was on something like 10 floppy discs. It seemed like the biggest things in the world and the loading screen on my 386 was about 5 minutes long.

My next PC was a 586 (not a Pentium...)

 

[Dinkin_Flicka]

Need some help troubleshooting an issue with my graphics card.

Put the PC build together and I think I have everything hooked up properly. When I power up the PC, I wasn't getting an image with an HDMI directly from the GPU, so hooked it up through the motherboard to get through the initial set up and was hoping it was just a driver issue.

When I tried to download the geforce app it says I can't finish the install because I need an NVIDIA GPU. I looked at the task manager and the GPU under performance is showing the integrated graphics from the CPU.

Looking at the graphics card the front "GeForce" logo lights up when powered on, but the fans aren't turning on.

Did some of the trouble shooting methods online. Checked the mounting to motherboard, checked the power cords (independent cables for each 8pin connector), made sure I had updated drivers for the motherboard, and checked the BIOS to make sure any GPU settings are on.

Scratching my head and hoping I didn't get a bad unit. Guessing because the fans aren't turning on it's maybe a power connector issue but I'm not sure how I can check without buying new cables to start with. Using PC partpicker it had the build at like 720w and bought an 850w supply.

 

[Neph]

Need some help troubleshooting an issue with my graphics card.

Put the PC build together and I think I have everything hooked up properly. When I power up the PC, I wasn't getting an image with an HDMI directly from the GPU, so hooked it up through the motherboard to get through the initial set up and was hoping it was just a driver issue.

When I tried to download the geforce app it says I can't finish the install because I need an NVIDIA GPU. I looked at the task manager and the GPU under performance is showing the integrated graphics from the CPU.

Looking at the graphics card the front "GeForce" logo lights up when powered on, but the fans aren't turning on.

Did some of the trouble shooting methods online. Checked the mounting to motherboard, checked the power cords (independent cables for each 8pin connector), made sure I had updated drivers for the motherboard, and checked the BIOS to make sure any GPU settings are on.

Scratching my head and hoping I didn't get a bad unit. Guessing because the fans aren't turning on it's maybe a power connector issue but I'm not sure how I can check without buying new cables to start with. Using PC partpicker it had the build at like 720w and bought an 850w supply.

I'm going to go with power on this one. You've probably tried these but this is what I'd do.

First take a break, it's probably goddamn frustrating. Get a clear head.

Then try different combinations of how you connect it to the PSU. Make sure the GPU is firmly seated to your motherboard in the top slot. Make sure each 8 pin connector is firmly plugged in at both ends, and that the clip at the GPU is completely in place. Take everything in and out multiple times and be extra extra sure it's all seated correctly. Use different combinations at the PSU to see if it makes a difference.

If you're absolutely sure you've done this then you can try to plug the GPU it into another PC or have an older GPU put into yours to test.

 

[Madmick]

I'm going to go with power on this one. You've probably tried these but this is what I'd do.

First take a break, it's probably goddamn frustrating. Get a clear head.

Then try different combinations of how you connect it to the PSU. Make sure the GPU is firmly seated to your motherboard in the top slot. Make sure each 8 pin connector is firmly plugged in at both ends, and that the clip at the GPU is completely in place. Take everything in and out multiple times and be extra extra sure it's all seated correctly. Use different combinations at the PSU to see if it makes a difference.

If you're absolutely sure you've done this then you can try to plug the GPU it into another PC or have an older GPU put into yours to test.

All of this. My first response is always to tell someone to be sure they've seated the GPU properly in the motherboard, because usually first time builders don't press down until it has snapped into place, especially with expensive GPUs, which is understandable, obviously, that they're being cautious not to break the GPU. Release the catch and re-seat, gently but firmly. Nevertheless, you mentioned you checked the mounting to the motherboard.

Another troubleshoot is to try another connector to the monitor. So not HDMI, but Displayport. Modern hardware is pretty on-the-money about detecting which connection you've used, and defaulting to that, but it's not 100%. This can also rule out the HDMI port itself on the GPU as a potential culprit. Once you've plugged in the GPU and fired up the comp, hit the button that brings up the OSD menu on your monitor. Check to see if it's using HDMI. If it isn't, manually select HDMI as the input.

 

[Dinkin_Flicka]

Thanks guys, I’ll keep trying the power connections and trying all of the available slots. Im tempted to just take it into a shop for them to trouble shoot because I only have until the 10th to return anything, and we have a Mac and a laptop, so I don’t have old components to swap in and out to test connection points to narrow in on an issue.

 

[PEB]

Intel top spec GPU board looking good at providing a very competitive gaming experience. Supports variable refresh rate gaming on tons of monitors an runs a number of AAA titles at 4k over 80 fps.

 

[Dinkin_Flicka]

Tried a few things with no luck on the graphics card. Ended up taking it to a local PC shop. Just replied back that the power supply is spiking voltage through the PCIE connectors and the GPU is DOA. Recommends return on both. Thank god I’m still in the 30 day return window and will start the return process this weekend.

 

[Neph]

Tried a few things with no luck on the graphics card. Ended up taking it to a local PC shop. Just replied back that the power supply is spiking voltage through the PCIE connectors and the GPU is DOA. Recommends return on both. Thank god I’m still in the 30 day return window and will start the return process this weekend.

Glad to hear you're getting it fixed. Also, what the fuck is a 30 day window when the product is obviously faulty.

 

[Dinkin_Flicka]

Glad to hear you're getting it fixed. Also, what the fuck is a 30 day window when the product is obviously faulty.

amazons return policy on electronics. I think it’s more for standard returns, for faulty equipment it has the warranty period. But in the 30 day window it’s a lot easier.

 

[560ti]

Glad to hear you're getting it fixed. Also, what the fuck is a 30 day window when the product is obviously faulty.

30 day window is a pretty standard policy. Basically brick n mortars or online retailers will handle the return of the product within 30 days but if it's longer than 30 days you have to reach out to the manufacturer themselves.

Obviously it's easier if something breaks within the 30 days, you basically just send it back no questions asked and let the retailer deal with the defective product

 

[Neph]

30 day window is a pretty standard policy. Basically brick n mortars or online retailers will handle the return of the product within 30 days but if it's longer than 30 days you have to reach out to the manufacturer themselves.

Obviously it's easier if something breaks within the 30 days, you basically just send it back no questions asked and let the retailer deal with the defective product

I don't live in the US so when I heard the 30 day return policy I assumed that after the 30 days you're fucked. I blame that on reading too much social media where there seems to be a lot less protection for consumers in the US than where I live (in Australia).

Example: Steam refusing refunds in Australia and lost in court: https://www.accc.gov.au/media-relea...representing-gamers-consumer-guarantee-rights

Other examples:

https://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/consumer-rights-guarantees/repair-replace-refund

Returning the product
When a product is too large, too heavy or too difficult to remove, the business is responsible for paying the shipping costs or collecting the product within a reasonable time of being notified of the problem. Examples include:

• a wide screen TV
• a bed
• an extension ladder stuck in the extended position
• a product that has been subsequently installed, like a stove or a dishwasher.

You do not have to return products in the original packaging in order to get a refund.

Approaching the retailer or manufacturer
The retailer who sold you the product or service cannot refuse to help you by sending you to the manufacturer or importer. You can approach the manufacturer or importer directly, however, you will only be entitled to recover costs from them, which include an amount for reduction in the product’s value and in some cases compensation for damages or loss. You cannot demand a repair, replacement or refund from the manufacturer.

See also: Who to claim a remedy from

'No refund' signs and expired warranties
Signs stating ‘No refunds’ or ‘No refunds or exchanges on sale items’ are unlawful, as they imply that it’s not possible to get a refund under any circumstances, including for faulty items. In fact your consumer guarantee rights still apply. Retailers don’t have to give you a refund or exchange if you simply change your mind. Always check the store’s returns policy.

Your rights under the consumer guarantees do not have a specific expiry date and can apply even after any warranties you’ve got from a business have expired.

 

[Madmick]

Tried a few things with no luck on the graphics card. Ended up taking it to a local PC shop. Just replied back that the power supply is spiking voltage through the PCIE connectors and the GPU is DOA. Recommends return on both. Thank god I’m still in the 30 day return window and will start the return process this weekend.

amazons return policy on electronics. I think it’s more for standard returns, for faulty equipment it has the warranty period. But in the 30 day window it’s a lot easier.

Damn, that's unfortunate, but I was worried this might be the case. Since I'm assuming you bought the PSU from EVGA's store in Amazon they're also a potential point of RMA for the PSU since they are themselves the manufacturer although the refund process is probably simpler, faster, and I suspect EVGA implements it for sales made there.

As you said, looks like the PSU killed the GPU. You just got unlucky. That's a Tier A PSU:
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

So you know, the voltage spikes aren't a sign it was overburdened, just a dud unit. If you ever want to figure out a true estimate for power draw the PSU calculators are more useful (I estimated you use an LED 27" monitor):
https://outervision.com/b/gM1CJh
Your load wattage comes out to 714W even for "Always-On" usage, and a recommended minimum 764W actual PSU. That's consistent with an abstract estimate one would form based on review measurements of the power draws for the 12900K and 3080 Ti. You can always snag a 1000W+ unit, it's not a whole lot more, but 850W is sufficient, so I saw little reason to suggest more than that.

Sorry you had this experience. Sucks, man. Total mood killer.

 

[Dinkin_Flicka]

Sending my fried GPU and PSU back tomorrow.

My local Best Buy has this in stock for the same price and I can pick it up today.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-n...ess-4-0-graphics-card/6467808.p?skuId=6467808

I have no idea how to tell if it would be compatible with my motherboard. The card specs says it’s GDDR6 and my MB is DDR4, no idea if that is an issue.

have this hooked up now

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TV...0-motherboard-rog-strix-b660-a-gaming-wifi-d4

@Madmick would this card work in my rig? It didn’t show up on the pc part picker for a compatibility check. Would love to hook it up for the weekend.

 

[Madmick]

Sending my fried GPU and PSU back tomorrow.

My local Best Buy has this in stock for the same price and I can pick it up today.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-n...ess-4-0-graphics-card/6467808.p?skuId=6467808

I have no idea how to tell if it would be compatible with my motherboard. The card specs says it’s GDDR6 and my MB is DDR4, no idea if that is an issue.

have this hooked up now

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TV...0-motherboard-rog-strix-b660-a-gaming-wifi-d4

@Madmick would this card work in my rig? It didn’t show up on the pc part picker for a compatibility check. Would love to hook it up for the weekend.

Yes, it's compatible with your rig. The GPU goes into the PCIe 5.0 x16 slot, not the RAM slots. The GDDR6 is video RAM, it has nothing to do with system RAM compatibility, don't get confused. That's a fresh release from EVGA, sometimes it takes a while for PCPP to add a part, often because nerds like me link it so they can add it. For some reason it isn't tracking the Amazon price or other merchants, yet, but here's their placeholder for that specific part:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/63...b-ftw3-ultra-gaming-video-card-12g-p5-3967-k2

 

[Madmick]

Oh, @Dinkin_Flicka, since you're probably sour on the PSU issue, understandably, FYI, the company known for the best customer support and general quality control across the board is Seasonic. Unfortunately, even the cheapest of their Gold-rated 1000W+ PSUs is $180 via Best Buy atm.
https://pcpartpicker.com/products/p...00000000000,2050000000000&m=71&sort=price&p=1

The cheapest 1000W+ Platinum-rated fully modular unit right now is again an EVGA, the Supernova P6, for $130 from EVGA directly, but the EVGA Supernova P2 1200W unit is a Superflower-manufactured unit, and considered one of the finest units made. Like most EVGA units it is backed by a steep warranty-- in this case 10 years. I'd recommend it over the Seasonic even if it came at a reasonable premium, but it's actually $20 cheaper from EVGA directly:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/V6...fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-p2-1200-x1
EVGA page:
https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-P2-1200-X1

 

[Dinkin_Flicka]

Picked up the new card tonight and PSU. Will put it back together in the morning. On the bright side out of this, I bought my first GPU and like 2 days later Nvidia had a promotion for 4 free games if you bought a GPU. Looked at the deal and I wasn't eligible. By returning the first card and picked up this new one I got the promo code for the free games.

 

[560ti]

I don't live in the US so when I heard the 30 day return policy I assumed that after the 30 days you're fucked. I blame that on reading too much social media where there seems to be a lot less protection for consumers in the US than where I live (in Australia).

Yeah the protection (especially for reputable companies) isn't bad. Within 30 days you deal with brick n motar and then after that you deal with the manfacuter themselves for however long the warranty is. The GPU he bought that was defective for example had a 3 year warranty through the manufactuer. Since it was within 30 days he was actually able to swap it out for a different manfactuer (30 days is nice because you can change your mind on model or even change it and buy something completely different)

 

[Madmick]

Oh, @Dinkin_Flicka, since you're probably sour on the PSU issue, understandably, FYI, the company known for the best customer support and general quality control across the board is Seasonic. Unfortunately, even the cheapest of their Gold-rated 1000W+ PSUs is $180 via Best Buy atm.
https://pcpartpicker.com/products/p...00000000000,2050000000000&m=71&sort=price&p=1

The cheapest 1000W+ Platinum-rated fully modular unit right now is again an EVGA, the Supernova P6, for $130 from EVGA directly, but the EVGA Supernova P2 1200W unit is a Superflower-manufactured unit, and considered one of the finest units made. Like most EVGA units it is backed by a steep warranty-- in this case 10 years. I'd recommend it over the Seasonic even if it came at a reasonable premium, but it's actually $20 cheaper from EVGA directly:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/V6...fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-p2-1200-x1
EVGA page:
https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-P2-1200-X1

@Dinkin_Flicka, fuck, when I came back to check the thread, I raised my eyebrow when I saw "P6" in the direct link for EVGA. It's the wrong PSU. The PCPP 1200W P2 page is sending you to EVGA's 1000W P6. Here is the appropriate link for the 1200W P2 unit:
https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-P2-1200-X1

 

[Dinkin_Flicka]

@Dinkin_Flicka, fuck, when I came back to check the thread, I raised my eyebrow when I saw "P6" in the direct link for EVGA. It's the wrong PSU. The PCPP 1200W P2 page is sending you to EVGA's 1000W P6. Here is the appropriate link for the 1200W P2 unit:
https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-P2-1200-X1

Thanks for the recommendations, really appriciate the help.

Not sure if I'm to big of an ignoramous to put this thing together or having rotten luck with components, but going to drop this thing off at the Best Buy Geek Squad to have them make this bastard work. On Friday I ended up picking up the new GPU and a new PSU (MSI gold series 850w) at BB after work. Installed the GPU, swapped out the PSU, plugged it in and turned it on..... nothing. Tried a few times to cycle the switch, checked the connections, still nothing.

I had used most of the old cables for ease, so took all of those out and put the new connectors, plugged it back in and turned it back on. This time I got some lights on the mother and GPU, but no fans and it doesn't boot up. I thought maybe there is to much of a power draw with the GPU to fire up, so I took that back out along with the cables, tried to start it up again, and again I got some lights, no fans, and still wont boot up. It occuerd to me at this point that I had not powered it up since I got back from the PC shop that told me the old card was dead, and was worried that maybe it got damaged in transporting it around.

Pulled everything back out for the umpteenth time, put the original PSU back in with its original cables and it turned on just fine. Thankfully it's still working, but back to where I started. So now I have an appointment to drop this off tonight with the Geek Squad. I'm at my wits end trying to trouble shoot this thing and just want it to go.

I think what you had said was the culprit all along that an 850w PSU should be sufficient, and I should have jumped to 1000w just to be sure. Now I just don't have the time or patience. Will return the new PSU for a 1000w and have them deal with it.

What an adventure this has been!!!!

 

[My Spot]

Thanks for the recommendations, really appriciate the help.

Not sure if I'm to big of an ignoramous to put this thing together or having rotten luck with components, but going to drop this thing off at the Best Buy Geek Squad to have them make this bastard work. On Friday I ended up picking up the new GPU and a new PSU (MSI gold series 850w) at BB after work. Installed the GPU, swapped out the PSU, plugged it in and turned it on..... nothing. Tried a few times to cycle the switch, checked the connections, still nothing.

I had used most of the old cables for ease, so took all of those out and put the new connectors, plugged it back in and turned it back on. This time I got some lights on the mother and GPU, but no fans and it doesn't boot up. I thought maybe there is to much of a power draw with the GPU to fire up, so I took that back out along with the cables, tried to start it up again, and again I got some lights, no fans, and still wont boot up. It occuerd to me at this point that I had not powered it up since I got back from the PC shop that told me the old card was dead, and was worried that maybe it got damaged in transporting it around.

Pulled everything back out for the umpteenth time, put the original PSU back in with its original cables and it turned on just fine. Thankfully it's still working, but back to where I started. So now I have an appointment to drop this off tonight with the Geek Squad. I'm at my wits end trying to trouble shoot this thing and just want it to go.

I think what you had said was the culprit all along that an 850w PSU should be sufficient, and I should have jumped to 1000w just to be sure. Now I just don't have the time or patience. Will return the new PSU for a 1000w and have them deal with it.

What an adventure this has been!!!!

Would you happen to live near a Microcenter?