That night boat up the Tonle sab is cool as hell because there's little light pollution except for village lights once you clear the cities for some long stretches so you can really see the sky lit up with stars. Once you hit the lake area with the hills and see the village lights, it's good stuff.
If you're going to Cambodia only once, this is definitely the best way to ger from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. Don't even THINK about doing the bus.
So...ended up taking the bus. It was the difference between $4 to $33 per person.
Aside from that, I loved Cambodia. I was expecting to enjoy Thailand a lot more, with Cambodia mostly just being cool for the sight-seeing. I ended up really being fascinated by the Khmer people and culture. I'll definitely be back.
Other Notes:
1. When in Bangkok, I stayed over by Khao San Road, which fucking sucks. Complete shit show over there, and we couldnt wait to get out. It was easy and convenient though, so stayed there for a day at a time on 3 separate occasions en route to somewhere else.
2. Visited Thai Islands of Koh Chang and Koh Si Chang, both of which were really cool. Si Chang is tiny, and it was nice to get away from the tourist crowds in Bangkok. I had a minor spill on my motorbike there, but no harm done. Koh Chang was amazing, and I could have spent 3-4 weeks there w/o a problem. Great snorkeling, did some night fishing, hung out at the beach, etc.
3. Visiting S-21 or the Killing Fields in Phnom Penh is a very depressing way to spend a day, but it's something you should still go to.
4. Donating some time at the orphanages in the city is a good way to feel good about life again after visiting the genocide museums. Bring finger paint. The kids love it.
5. I even trained a day in Bangkok. I'm a boxer, not a MT guy though, so they were laughing at my attempts to kick the pads. They complimented my hands though.
6. Traveling light is the way to go. 1 medium backpack. Everything else is available when you get there.
7. Angkor Wat is a must-see, but...expect to be sick of temples by the end of the day.