Tech Gaming Hardware discussion (& Hardware Sales) thread

audiophile and headphones seem to go together about as well as baseball purists and a home-run derby, but i suppose quality has come a long way.

i'd rather just never need to use headphones. i bought a sennheiser a long time ago (after a feral cat an exgf tried to take in peed on mine [and was dubbed "sergei pissblaster"] ), but i think i used it one time. obviously, i shouldn't have bothered replacing the headphones.

shit, i still run monsoon planar speakers on my computer. those cheap (~$80 at the time? [incl sub] ) speakers sound damn good. when you're in front of them, at least.

and re: cyberpower, i'm curious as to what psu is in it, especially now.
 

I tried the Schiit Vali but I ended up returning it. I wasn't a fan of when I bumped my desk I got that twang sound form the tube.
I'm currently running a cheapo SMSL SAP 2 Pro that I picked up used for $40 when I had my SHP9500's and it worked well for them. I upgraded to the Fidelio X2's and it's doing it's job, but I'd like to find something better.
 
I tried the Schiit Vali but I ended up returning it. I wasn't a fan of when I bumped my desk I got that twang sound form the tube.
I'm currently running a cheapo SMSL SAP 2 Pro that I picked up used for $40 when I had my SHP9500's and it worked well for them. I upgraded to the Fidelio X2's and it's doing it's job, but I'd like to find something better.
I was just joking mostly and this is also why I said I only thought it looked cool. I built my own tube amp in college as a fun project. I built it as a tiny single channel and built two of them. It sounded good mostly due to the filtering built into it. There was no way I was going to produce them in volume to much of a pain in the butt. Oh it was only 2Watts per channel.
 
The practical throughput never matches the theoretical specification quoted.

Your actual speed depends on the WiFi network adapter built into the laptop's motherboard. There's not all the same, and the reason this is confusing is because this remains one of the most obfuscated specs in laptops despite that in this day and age it's one of the most important. If you Google enough you can usually find the built-in network adapter's exact model. Intel, Killer, Asus, sometimes even the mobile players like Broadcomm (typically for Netbook, Ultrabooks, and tablet hybrids) are the manufacturers of these. Then you can look up that network adapter's specs.

There you can find the exact download and upload rated speeds for the WiFi. Be aware these are the WLAN speeds, not the LAN speeds. Laptops have ethernet ports for wired connections, the LAN, and those will almost always be at least 1Gbps. Not always so for WiFi.

Next you have the MU-MIMO of the network adapter, or how many simultaneous streams it can manage. Both router and WiFi network adapter have rating. This is written as 1x1, 2x2, 4x4. The more the better. That's because we often compete with other devices on our own networks. This has a greater impact on latency than speed, but it can affect both. What happens if that you have everyone asking the router for data packets. It puts you all in a queue. If the router can only handle 1 stream at a time, you all get put into the same queue. More queues is more people being served simultaneously just like at the post office. The router can also break up tasks all going to your laptop. If your laptop can handle more streams simultaneously that can speed things up.

In addition to all this, more important to raw download speed than the above, there is real-world degradation with WiFi signals that you don't experience with wired connections. Again, this depends on both the router and the WiFi network adapter in your laptop. Cheaper routers have inferior transmission power. All signals weaken the farther you get from the router, but their signals will weaken with less distance. Walls and other obstacles also play a huge role in this. With dual-band routers, the 2.4GHz band is slower than the 5GHz band, but it also carries farther (like AM vs. FM radio). While it's the tortoise, sometimes this means it wins the race. Depends on the physical spot of reception. You can speedtest.net both networks from any specific spot to decipher this with certainty.

The better routers also have a feature called "beamforming" which enables you some directional control of your signal using the antennae, but in my experience this has had a negligible effect.

Finally, you have the concern of interference. So if you live in a building with a ton of other people, since everyone has WiFi these days, you're almost certainly going to experience interference. This also causes issues of latency and speed drop-off. Over a decade ago, when 5GHz was brand new, and almost nobody had it, the easiest way to avoid this crowded radio space was to get on 5GHz, and suddenly you were sailing free. Those in crowded buildings reported the difference in internet speed was astonishing. So today, the latest and greatest routers are starting to utilize a special sub-channel: the 160MHz band. This is how to avoid the crowd at the watering hole (assuming you don't have a tech-savvy neighbor). The below article explains it in depth:
160 MHz Wi-Fi Channels: Friend or Foe?


Wow, that's complex. It's almost like the best thing to do is buy it, test it, and return it if not better than the native network card on the motherboard!!!!

Pretty sure the card is Adapter : Killer Wireless-n/a/ac 1535 Wireless Network Adapter. Not sure if that's a wifi 4 or a wifi 5 card. And what the step ups are like for 4 to 5 to 6. I think I heard wifi 6 only has a material benefit if a whole bunch of computers are on the same network.

Thanks for the super detailed post by the way, really cool.
 
Finally got my build done! It took two long ass months for every part I was looking for to be back in stock. These are my specs:

AMD Ryzen 3700x 8 Core
64gb Corsair Vengeance DDR4 @ 3200mhz - will upgrade to 128gb later
1tb Sabrent nvme Gen 4 SSD - Decided to pay the extra $$ to take advantage of my motherboards gen 4 capabilities. Definitely well worth it. The speed is insane and boot up is like 8-10 seconds.
MSI X570 Tomahawk Wifi - This took the damn longest to receive.
EVGA 980ti hybrid (comes with an AIO water cooler pre installed) - Still using my old GPU which is still plenty enough, but will upgrade once the 3000 rtx series is out.
PSU is the Corsair RMX 850 watt - This took the second longest to obtain. The SECOND I saw it was available on newegg at it's actual retail price I immediately snagged it, and by the end of the day they were fully sold out.
I've been using AIO water coolers for the past decade, but decided to go with the Noctua UH12S Chromax black edition. Thing looks absolutely gorgeous in it's new black color. Can't believe it took Noctua this long to deviate from it's ugly but iconic brown color.
 
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Those are strong suggestions, but it should be noted there's no need to procure a headphone amp unless you're using a high impedance audiophile-class headphone, Slob.

The simplest way to determine if this might be suitable for you is simple. It requires two questions; one a paper question, the other with the ears.
(1) Is the impedance spec for your headphones high?
(2) If yes, with your current headphones, are you unable to achieve a sufficient volume without hearing distortion or white noise?

If the answer to either of those questions is no, then don't waste money on an amp.

do you have any recommendations for a headphone amp/dac with RCA outs and produces a signal from USB (I get static from my mobo sound). I’d like the volume level of the RCA outs to be able to be controlled from headphone dac/amp.
Current setup is Syba Sonic as a DAC, SMSL Sap 2 Pro headphone amp powering Philips Fidelio X2’s, a SMSL SA-50 powering Pioneer SP-BS22-LR bookshelf’s, and a Dayton Audio 10” sub.
I’ve looked at the all in ones like the SMSL AD18 but the speaker amp part would be less power than I have now.
sorry for the lack of technical terms, I’m running on caffeine and no sleep.
.
 
I tried the Schiit Vali but I ended up returning it. I wasn't a fan of when I bumped my desk I got that twang sound form the tube.
I'm currently running a cheapo SMSL SAP 2 Pro that I picked up used for $40 when I had my SHP9500's and it worked well for them. I upgraded to the Fidelio X2's and it's doing it's job, but I'd like to find something better.

Try a solid state headphone amp instead of a tube or hybrid or you can also use vibration dampeners like silicone or Sorbothane rings for tubes. Schiit even makes a pure gaming oriented amp in the Hel, but you rarely see any up for sale.
 
audiophile and headphones seem to go together about as well as baseball purists and a home-run derby, but i suppose quality has come a long way.

i'd rather just never need to use headphones. i bought a sennheiser a long time ago (after a feral cat an exgf tried to take in peed on mine [and was dubbed "sergei pissblaster"] ), but i think i used it one time. obviously, i shouldn't have bothered replacing the headphones.

shit, i still run monsoon planar speakers on my computer. those cheap (~$80 at the time? [incl sub] ) speakers sound damn good. when you're in front of them, at least.

and re: cyberpower, i'm curious as to what psu is in it, especially now.
I spent a bunch of money on a headphone amp/dac set up and litterally never use it. My computer is also hooked into my av receiver so Im usually using my big screen and audio speaker/sub system. The headphones do sound fantastic they just lock me in a listening possition.
 
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 30 Ampere Gaming Graphics Cards, RTX 3080 Ti & RTX 3080, To Be Introduced on 9th September


We have a date.
do you have any recommendations for a headphone amp/dac with RCA outs and produces a signal from USB (I get static from my mobo sound). I’d like the volume level of the RCA outs to be able to be controlled from headphone dac/amp.
Current setup is Syba Sonic as a DAC, SMSL Sap 2 Pro headphone amp powering Philips Fidelio X2’s, a SMSL SA-50 powering Pioneer SP-BS22-LR bookshelf’s, and a Dayton Audio 10” sub.
I’ve looked at the all in ones like the SMSL AD18 but the speaker amp part would be less power than I have now.
sorry for the lack of technical terms, I’m running on caffeine and no sleep.
.
I do not possess any erudite recommendations, here, no.
 
Should this drop the prices of the 2k series any?
It usually takes several months for the new cards to become the staple of inventories for this effect to become substantial. Tough to recall. Last gen this was disrupted by the wake of the cryptocurrency bubble, and the huge price hike NVIDIA imposed, plus there was the fact the GTX 1000 series was such a juggernaut generation, so I remember it taking quite a bit longer than I expected for the raw price:performance curve to really bend downwards.

Chiefly, it depends on which cards launch. If only the 3080 and 3080 Ti launch, the the mid-level cards (RTX 2070 Super and below) probably won't change much until their successors are launched and saturate inventories. Then there's the matter of the price of the new cards. A lower price means a better price:performance ratio. The whole landscape shifts depending on where this bar is set.
 
It usually takes several months for the new cards to become the staple of inventories for this effect to become substantial. Tough to recall. Last gen this was disrupted by the wake of the cryptocurrency bubble, and the huge price hike NVIDIA imposed, plus there was the fact the GTX 1000 series was such a juggernaut generation, so I remember it taking quite a bit longer than I expected for the raw price:performance curve to really bend downwards.

Chiefly, it depends on which cards launch. If only the 3080 and 3080 Ti launch, the the mid-level cards (RTX 2070 Super and below) probably won't change much until their successors are launched and saturate inventories. Then there's the matter of the price of the new cards. A lower price means a better price:performance ratio. The whole landscape shifts depending on where this bar is set.
Way too many variables then.

Guess when it is time to get my pc, I will just have to bite the bullet on the graphics card price.
 
Way too many variables then.

Guess when it is time to get my pc, I will just have to bite the bullet on the graphics card price.
Exactly. Sorry, I should have cliffed that with a simple, "I don't know". One other factor is that I recall seeing a headline in the past month or two that RTX 2000 series production had already been stopped way ahead of the new launch. So NVIDIA is tightly controlling inventory. Unfortunately, that ought to stymie a depression in the 2000 series pricing.
 
Try a solid state headphone amp instead of a tube or hybrid or you can also use vibration dampeners like silicone or Sorbothane rings for tubes. Schiit even makes a pure gaming oriented amp in the Hel, but you rarely see any up for sale.

I've looked at the HEL but when you plug in your headphones it mutes the line out. I'd like to find something where I don't have to plug and unplug stuff if I want to switch between headphones and speakers.
 
So they’re sticking with the Ti designation instead of the “3090” or whatever?
Yeah, it looks like they're reverting to the naming scheme they've used in the past (which makes more sense). Of course, the "3090" name tag was never official, I think.
 
I've looked at the HEL but when you plug in your headphones it mutes the line out. I'd like to find something where I don't have to plug and unplug stuff if I want to switch between headphones and speakers.

I use an audio interface that does what you want, but it may be a bit more than what you need.. I use it for music production but it also doubles as my main audio device in my windows environment. I have headphones and speakers connected to it, never have to plug in or unplug anything. I have it connected via USB.

If you're interested look up Focusrite or Presonus audio interfaces at a music shop like Sweetwater, Guitar Center, etc.
 
So question on desktop versus laptop. Would buying a high end gaming laptop and using that to game at max settings, would that compromise the life of the laptop compared to similar use on a desktop? Also, are gaming laptops closing the performance gap with desktops?
 
So question on desktop versus laptop. Would buying a high end gaming laptop and using that to game at max settings, would that compromise the life of the laptop compared to similar use on a desktop? Also, are gaming laptops closing the performance gap with desktops?
Not for the price at the moment, not to mention gaming laptops tend to sound like a wind turbine if you turn up game performance even a little. Not sure on the useage issue, but with a PC if a part fails, you just replace it, whereas that is not so simple with most laptops.
 

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