I need help again, its a water heater part that I need the name of. Thanks!!

[TheOneAboveAll3]

Hi guys, I am back again with help needed. So I had a water heater installed and the inspector was here today and he said that I needed to replace a part of the water heater but cant seem to find it. He said the name of it is "pressure/temp relief valve rigid" but cant find it at home depot.

Its the plastic tube that I need to replace, he said it needs to be metal instead of plastic.

 

[xHeadx]

Here's a diagram:

https://theplumbinginfo.com/water-heaters/

Looks like overflow/discharge pipe.

 

[Fatality]

Just use 3/4" copper pipe as the discharge line.

 

[TheOneAboveAll3]

Just use 3/4" copper pipe as the discharge line.

I think it's 1/2" though. Thats what it says in the Geospring Manual.

Here,

I just cant seem to find it on homedepot page

 

[TheOneAboveAll3]

Just use 3/4" copper pipe as the discharge line.

Here's a diagram:

https://theplumbinginfo.com/water-heaters/

Looks like overflow/discharge pipe.

Okay I see now. So when he said I need to use metal he meant I could use a copper one? I did find the copper but didnt find a metal one.

 

[Dinotective]

its called "the white hose on the outside of the boiler"

 

[TheOneAboveAll3]

its called "the white hose on the outside of the boiler"

Thats what you and I call it, I want to know what someone who knows what they are talking about calls it.

 

[Fatality]

I think it's 1/2" though. Thats what it says in the Geospring Manual.

The water lines in and out are typically 1/2" but the relief valve drain is normally larger. The fittings shown in your manual are for PVC which means plastic. You just need a threaded copper fitting that will screw onto the relief valve that you can then solder the 3/4" copper drain line to. If you do this yourself remember to solder the drain line to the fitting before you screw it to the tank and allow the solder to cool or you could damage the relief valve or melt the Teflon tape.

 

[TheOneAboveAll3]

The water lines in and out are typically 1/2" but the relief valve drain is normally larger. The fittings shown in your manual are for PVC which means plastic. You just need a threaded copper fitting that will screw onto the relief valve that you can then solder the 3/4" copper drain line to. If you do this yourself remember to solder the drain line to the fitting before you screw it to the tank and allow the solder to cool or you could damage the relief valve or melt the Teflon tape.

0k, when I buy the copper can I ask your help? The valve seems pretty hot and dont want water to flow out, thats if it does. Never done this so I would likely need help once I buy the copper pipe.


Is this good to replace the white plastic tube?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerro-3...e-M-Hard-Straight-Pipe-PSLE-750M002/203654971

 

[Fatality]

0k, when I buy the copper can I ask your help? The valve seems pretty hot and dont want water to flow out, thats if it does. Never done this so I would likely need help once I buy the copper pipe.


Is this good to replace the white plastic tube?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerro-3...e-M-Hard-Straight-Pipe-PSLE-750M002/203654971

Water won't flow out of the relief valve unless you damage it, if you aren't comfortable with working on the unit while it is in use simply shut off the power and close the water valve on the supply line.

Once you buy the pipe and fitting:
1. Solder the fitting to the pipe - scuff the fitting and the end of the pipe where they slot together with sand paper. Spread some tinning flux on the two surfaces you just scuffed and push the pipe fully into the fitting. Heat the pipe(propane torch or whatever) and fitting while applying the solder to the seam hold the heat away from the seam in the direction you want the solder to flow. See video for how to solder correctly:
2. Allow the solder to harden and the pipe/fitting to cool.
3. Wrap the threads with Teflon tape or whatever thread sealant you have and screw the pipe to the water heater. This is only a relief drain so you don't have to crank it overly tight. Hand tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench is fine.

Any other questions feel free to ask.

 

[Cole train]

By the amount of shit breaking down at your place, i recommend trade school just for the hell of it lol

 

[TheOneAboveAll3]

Here's a diagram:

https://theplumbinginfo.com/water-heaters/

Looks like overflow/discharge pipe.

Just use 3/4" copper pipe as the discharge line.

Okay in this video it shows it, it is what you guys say it is but I just can't find it on home depot or lowes. I also dont want to solder it and would rather replace it with one that connects to the valve itself.

Here at 25 seconds it is

 

[TheOneAboveAll3]

By the amount of shit breaking down at your place, i recommend trade school just for the hell of it lol

No nothing broke. The guys who replaced heater used the plastic pipes instead of a metal one about 2 years ago. I didnt call the inspector then so had to pull a permit last week and today the inspector told me I need to have a metal pipe instead of a plastic pipe.

 

[TheOneAboveAll3]

Water won't flow out of the relief valve unless you damage it, if you aren't comfortable with working on the unit while it is in use simply shut off the power and close the water valve on the supply line.

Once you buy the pipe and fitting:
1. Solder the fitting to the pipe - scuff the fitting and the end of the pipe where they slot together with sand paper. Spread some tinning flux on the two surfaces you just scuffed and push the pipe fully into the fitting. Heat the pipe(propane torch or whatever) and fitting while applying the solder to the seam hold the heat away from the seam in the direction you want the solder to flow. See video for how to solder correctly:
2. Allow the solder to harden and the pipe/fitting to cool.
3. Wrap the threads with Teflon tape or whatever thread sealant you have and screw the pipe to the water heater. This is only a relief drain so you don't have to crank it overly tight. Hand tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench is fine.

Any other questions feel free to ask.

Thanks for the video. Guess I am going to have to solder since I dont see the pipe to buy already fitted with the valve

 

[Fatality]

Thanks for the video. Guess I am going to have to solder since I dont see the pipe to buy already fitted with the valve

Yup copper pipe doesn't come pre threaded. At least I have never seen any, it is too thin to cut threads into.

Luckily it is just a drain line and doesn't need to be water tight so if your soldering sucks it doesn't matter.

Edit: the pipe shown in your video doesn't look to be copper. If you don't want to use copper you can probably find a threaded length of pipe or have one made for you at a local metal workshop. I suggested copper because it is cheap and easy to find/use but if you want to spend more money you can get a different material pipe that is pre threaded. Galvanized or stainless steel if you don't want any rust issues.

 

[Big Tuppy Hole]

3/4 copper pipe and use a brass cone tight union into your pressure release valve

 

[TheOneAboveAll3]

Yup copper pipe doesn't come pre threaded. At least I have never seen any, it is too thin to cut threads into.

Luckily it is just a drain line and doesn't need to be water tight so if your soldering sucks it doesn't matter.

Edit: the pipe shown in your video doesn't look to be copper. If you don't want to use copper you can probably find a threaded length of pipe or have one made for you at a local metal workshop. I suggested copper because it is cheap and easy to find/use but if you want to spend more money you can get a different material pipe that is pre threaded. Galvanized or stainless steel if you don't want any rust issues.

Can I use this?

 

[Fatality]

Yeah that will work

 

[bufetadanacara]

Water won't flow out of the relief valve unless you damage it, if you aren't comfortable with working on the unit while it is in use simply shut off the power and close the water valve on the supply line.

Once you buy the pipe and fitting:
1. Solder the fitting to the pipe - scuff the fitting and the end of the pipe where they slot together with sand paper. Spread some tinning flux on the two surfaces you just scuffed and push the pipe fully into the fitting. Heat the pipe(propane torch or whatever) and fitting while applying the solder to the seam hold the heat away from the seam in the direction you want the solder to flow. See video for how to solder correctly:
2. Allow the solder to harden and the pipe/fitting to cool.
3. Wrap the threads with Teflon tape or whatever thread sealant you have and screw the pipe to the water heater. This is only a relief drain so you don't have to crank it overly tight. Hand tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench is fine.

Any other questions feel free to ask.

He's just learnt that copper is a metal and you expect him to be able to solder?

 

[Jack Reacheround]

It’s called the anal spectrometer.