Other than money, is there any reason to not use full synthetic oil?

My research ended in finding the bulk of "synthetic" oil to be classified as group III. This is crude oil from groups I & 2 with altered molecules. Technically speaking, these are not true synthetic oils. Mobil 1 High Mileage was the only group IV synthetic in their lineup . That has now been changed as well. Companies were able to label group IIIs synthetic via lawsuits in the USA.
 
Please don't spread misinformation.

I've heard the same thing. Please provide information if you have information. I was told there should be an "oil flush" done if you want to switch and you should be consistent with your choice of oil.
 
Well, you're right that you should be consistent with the oil, as long as the operating conditions and usage is consistent.

For any engine, most any oil will technically wor (within reason), but a specific weight is going to be optimal in terms of wear protection, and parasitic drag losses which affect economy amd performance.

The more recently the engine was engineered and manufactured, the tighter the bearing and piston tolerances are likely to be, which allows for oils very the in viscosity to work which are easiest to pump and easiest to shed from reciprocating components. The downside being that they are less than optimal in extreme duty (meaning extended RPM, or very dusty/polluted) conditions. In cases like those, a thicker oil will slightly worsen mileage and performance but may prevent damage from abuse.

Without writing a book here on engine metallurgy and lubricants, you shouldn't switch oils around unless the conditions switch, because you should stick with what's ideal and any change from ideal is a compromise in some aspect of the engines performance.

But the "don't switch to synthetic, it'll be bad, n stuff" is a crock of
dook unless you're referring to some fossil of an engine with bearing tolerances over .003 and multi-piece rope seals. But even in those cases, some nice thick Mobil 1 15-50 synthetic rarely causes problems (especially with a splash of Lucas) and will all but stop friction wear on its antiquated iron piston rings and non-roller camshaft tappets altogether.

And I wouldn't worrying about flushing it if you're changing to synthetic, the oils are compatible. That is unless the old oil is really old and disgusting, in which case a cheap way to flush it is to change the oil and filter with cheap , store brand dead dinosaur oil (non-synthetic) and run it for 5-10 minutes so that it douches out all the nooks and crannies. Then swap to the good stuff.
 
It's nothing you should be concerned with.

New oil is for pussies.

New engines are where it's at. Change your engine every 5-10,000 miles and you don't have to worry about changing oil like a chump.

what's oil and why would I change it
 
z-rod_synthetic_motoroil.jpg
Atta boy. I'm not convinced on the 15K mile intervals for AMS oil though. I worked at a shop and a couple people came in at 15k and the oil looked horrible.
 
It's nothing you should be concerned with.

New oil is for pussies.

New engines are where it's at. Change your engine every 5-10,000 miles and you don't have to worry about changing oil like a chump.
You could honestly go 30-40k with out changing current API, group IV or V oils without issues. It's the filter technology that hasn't changed and that's why you have to change it sooner. Technically, you could probably just get away with changing the filter every 5-10k and keep oil in for ten times that.
 
Also, it doesn't make a huge difference going back and forth between oils in most any vehicle. The key is using the correct API rated oil and viscosity for the vehicle..or something that is newer than the API that the vehicle calls for. SN rated oils are backward compatible with older version.

Whether an oil has a non-synthetic base or something full synthetic isn't going to affect much in the engine regardless of when it was made. Fully synthetic base stocks are better because they tend to transfer heat better... for example polyalphaolefins and esthers are better than solvent refined and hydrocracked refined base stocks in that regard. They will break down at much slower rate.
 
Atta boy. I'm not convinced on the 15K mile intervals for AMS oil though. I worked at a shop and a couple people came in at 15k and the oil looked horrible.

Yeah that is a lot of miles. I know the Zrod stuff is 5k or 1 year.
 
Well, you're right that you should be consistent with the oil, as long as the operating conditions and usage is consistent.

For any engine, most any oil will technically wor (within reason), but a specific weight is going to be optimal in terms of wear protection, and parasitic drag losses which affect economy amd performance.

The more recently the engine was engineered and manufactured, the tighter the bearing and piston tolerances are likely to be, which allows for oils very the in viscosity to work which are easiest to pump and easiest to shed from reciprocating components. The downside being that they are less than optimal in extreme duty (meaning extended RPM, or very dusty/polluted) conditions. In cases like those, a thicker oil will slightly worsen mileage and performance but may prevent damage from abuse.

Without writing a book here on engine metallurgy and lubricants, you shouldn't switch oils around unless the conditions switch, because you should stick with what's ideal and any change from ideal is a compromise in some aspect of the engines performance.

But the "don't switch to synthetic, it'll be bad, n stuff" is a crock of
dook unless you're referring to some fossil of an engine with bearing tolerances over .003 and multi-piece rope seals. But even in those cases, some nice thick Mobil 1 15-50 synthetic rarely causes problems (especially with a splash of Lucas) and will all but stop friction wear on its antiquated iron piston rings and non-roller camshaft tappets altogether.

And I wouldn't worrying about flushing it if you're changing to synthetic, the oils are compatible. That is unless the old oil is really old and disgusting, in which case a cheap way to flush it is to change the oil and filter with cheap , store brand dead dinosaur oil (non-synthetic) and run it for 5-10 minutes so that it douches out all the nooks and crannies. Then swap to the good stuff.
I am now more confused than ever
 
Last time I changed my oil was in November of 2015. 23k miles ago
 
Synthetic motor oil is the best because it's Islam free.
 
Yep you're correct there. Especially since there's going to be some rate of consumption per 5k miles. Topping it off will keep reintroducing fresh oil to the mix and the filters will remove most of the contaminants.

You could honestly go 30-40k with out changing current API, group IV or V oils without issues. It's the filter technology that hasn't changed and that's why you have to change it sooner. Technically, you could probably just get away with changing the filter every 5-10k and keep oil in for ten times that.
 
I don't use synthetic on my 20 year old car because when I made the switch, leaks started springing up from everywhere and stopped when I switched back to conventional motor oil.
 
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