Kali Wilgus and Liz “LC” Connelly, the two white women who started Kooks earlier this year, have been accused of stealing their techniques from the “tortilla ladies” of Puerto Nuevo, Mexico — because Connelly told
Willamette Week that they gathered their recipes and tortilla-making processes during a holiday road-trip to the Baja California village.
"I picked the brains of every tortilla lady there in the worst broken Spanish ever, and they showed me a little of what they did," she told the site. "They told us the basic ingredients, and we saw them moving and stretching the dough similar to how pizza makers do before rolling it out with rolling pins.”
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Connelly then said she used a trial-and-error process to recreate a tortilla with the same flavor and texture after returning to Portland. She and Wilgus then opened their weekend pop-up inside a taco truck on SE Cesar Estrada Chavez Boulevard, and began serving their Mexican-style tortillas filled with California-inspired ingredients.
Though the eatery had been open for several months, the owners of Kooks were only recently accused of cultural appropriation by The Portland Mercury and Mic.com based on Connelly’s revelations.
"Because of Portland’s underlying racism, the people who rightly own these traditions and cultures that exist are already treated poorly,"
The Portland Mercury said, calling the closure of Kooks a "victory."
The article continues,"These appropriating businesses are erasing and exploiting their already marginalized identities for the purpose of profit and praise."
