- Joined
- Apr 24, 2007
- Messages
- 26,181
- Reaction score
- 6,983
AR 10 bros, help me out; first 20 rounds through the gun an almost every one FTF with the BCG gouging the shit out of my brass.
AR 10 bros, help me out; first 20 rounds through the gun an almost every one FTF with the BCG gouging the shit out of my brass.
I have a PMAG 10 (pinned to 5, because Canada); it does have trouble seating charged with the bolt forward and it has trouble locking back on empty.Is it factory?
What mags?
Try taking the mag apart, cleaning and lubing the spring.
Is the mag seated 100%? Lock bcg back, insert mag and give it a good tap upwards.
Can you manually cycle rounds without issue?
Is it short stroking? Put 1 round in the mag, charge, shoot and see if the bcg locks back.
Check the bcg for issues/burrs. If you extend the bolt and place it on it's face does it support itself? If you close the bolt, grab the bcg and swing it downward with decent force does the bolt extend? Look around gas key for evidence of possible gas leaks.
Check the feed ramps for burrs or anything that that might be catching the bullet or case.
Everything nice and lubricated? Some AR's like to be wet.
The buffer and spring don't seem to have any issues or problems moving freely?
I have a PMAG 10 (pinned to 5, because Canada); it does have trouble seating charged with the bolt forward and it has trouble locking back on empty.
That's my first and strongest suspicion, checked the gas block and tube and it seems fine, but I don't really know what to look for.
AR 10 bros, help me out; first 20 rounds through the gun an almost every one FTF with the BCG gouging the shit out of my brass.
AR 10 bros, help me out; first 20 rounds through the gun an almost every one FTF with the BCG gouging the shit out of my brass.
Thanks for the replies W&T bros, sadly I won't be able to diagnose until after the New Year. Had a bit of a family "emergency" where I couldn't do what I wanted with the gun and verify on a range.
If you must know, it's a factory Stag-10 .308, 18.6" barrel for the Canadian market. I don't know if that means that Stag makes a Canadian barrel for it or the importer does a run of barrels. It's a rifle length tube and I doubt that extra 0.6" would have inherent negative effects. I'll check to see how well the gas block aligned.
I'll check back on this thread and try those things when I can, but I work until after Christmas then I'm off for a bit.
Agree with all.
RTR and CH said everything I would suggest.
Did you build it yourself? If so I am betting the gas block turned ever so slightly not allowing enough gas. 2nd bet would spring/buffer combo.
Waiting on the slr gas block. Will get it engraved and completed after new years.
Boner city! Get a suregrip on there and you're set.
Just a curious question.... anyone have experience going from a 5.56mm NATO chamber to .223 Wylde? Is it worth considering?
Just a curious question.... anyone have experience going from a 5.56mm NATO chamber to .223 Wylde? Is it worth considering?
John Noveske: ...And then, when we go to chambering, it’s a chambering process that I developed as an employee of Pac-Nor, and I looked at how they were chambering barrels, and I saw the logic in it, and I found ways to improve it. The reamers are all custom-made for me as far as the grind, the angles, the number of flutes. The way we chamber, you never get any scoring on the lands forward of the throat like most other people have to deal with, because our chips are forced out the back. The end result is a beautiful, highly polished chamber. Every barrel is individually inspected to ensure against or prevent reamer wear and have an undersized chamber. They all get gauged on every point, and the design of the chamber is a design I developed after many different evolutions. This was designed to work…to do full-auto mag dumps with [Black Hills] MK 262 Mod 1 [77gr Open-Tip Match (OTM) 5.56x45mm ammo], and now you can sit there and pour as much ammo as you can through the gun on full-auto, and the thing that’s gonna’ fail is the gas tube. We haven’t had any stuck chambers since I came up with the recent chamber, which is called the Noveske…the acronym, which we write on the barrel is "NMm0", and that stands for Noveske Match Mod 0. It’s a chamber that gives you 100% reliability with as much retained accuracy as possible. You can have a more accurate chamber design, but you sacrifice battle-grade reliability. You can get stuck cases and other things with different chambers.
Just a curious question.... anyone have experience going from a 5.56mm NATO chamber to .223 Wylde? Is it worth considering?