Car repair Sherbros gtfih - Replacing brake pads.....easy? - UPDATE: It's Easy

[CerebralKnievel]

I've replaced breaks and rotors in the past on an old Volvo, and I know next to nothing about cars or mechanics in general, so it is definitely something that anyone with an aptitude for doing stuff can figure out.

I later attempted it on my Pathfinder and discovered that there was some crazy hub thing which required special attachments to dislodge and just paid someone to do it for me.

 

[jefferz]

I do love man points. I hate those places that offer "Free lifetime brake replacement" b/c they obviously offer free brake pads but charge you labor everytime, which is where they make up all their money. I go through pads pretty quickly b/c of my driving style and commute. So if I can do them myself I'll save quite a bit of money even if I have to buy some tools to do it.

Maybe I'll try 1 brake pad first and see if I survive. That way if it fails at least my other 3 will theoretically stop me from skidding off a cliff into a fiery death.

Don’t only replace 1 side. If you do that the car will pull hard to one side when you brake.

 

[Ron Mexico]

Easy job, you have experience so it will be easy.

Watch you tube and always have a repair book for you car.

Repair book???
You must be old, friend
Google/YouTube(I still use repair books as well)

 

[Legumes]

All the others have pretty much covered everything except telling you to re-lube the guides/slides and contact points depending on the style of caliper you have. Check your owners manual for the appropriate type of lube to use. Various types are incompatible with certain types of rubber and could cause issues. The boots that protect the slides can fail and allow dirt and grime inside causing other issues later on down the road. In some cases slides actually have rubber on them. If you put an incompatible lube on those, the rubber swells and can stick the pin on the caliper in place pretty quickly(couple of weeks typically). If that happens, the pads get worn down very prematurely. Silicone based lubricants are a safe bet, but it would be wise to look up what your manufacturer recommends.

Youtube is a good reference as it's very likely someone has covered your particular car on there. I would recommend checking out the South Main Auto channel. Keep in mind he's from NY, so some of the steps he takes for rust removal or prevention probably aren't necessary for you living in CA.

 

[Protectandserve]

My dad taught my little brother to do his brakes when he was 16. I think you'll be fine.

 

[TheNinja]

Don’t only replace 1 side. If you do that the car will pull hard to one side when you brake.

Maybe I'll just do the front 2 first then - That way if I screw up at least my rear brakes should theoretically work. It sounds like I should easily be able to do it though.
I just can't believe these stupid mechanic shops charge like $400 for a simple brake job on all 4 brakes. I understand they may need to "turn the rotors" but still. I guess they have to make money too. But looks like I can do it for like $120 max for all 4 sets of good brake pads.

 

[ziggs]

just did rear brake job from hell...$700.both calipers were seized...$700!!! i dont think theyd ever been serviced in 15 years.ffffuuuuaaarrrrrkkkkk

should be straight frwd...unless you find soemthing wrong w the calipers and have to replace them too....ie if the pistons arent retracting because shit got in or they rusted because they were extended out as the pads wore or if you see leakage from the piston seal after you push it in.

if the rotors seized on you can use a bearing puller...or heat it up then hammer it off...may take some swearing

 

[Dirt Road Soldier]

Brakes are simple. A few parts, simple tools, and youtube to help out although most are pretty much idiot proof. Just take your time, make sure you follow the instructions on youtube if you need them, and you should be fine.

 

[TheNinja]

I changed them. It was a piece of cake. Seriously a VERY easy job to do the front pads. I have to do the rear pads at some point. They might be a tad tougher b/c of parking brake but I don't envision it being too tough.

It was one of the easier things I've done on a car. The hardest part was probably trying to get that stupid metal "clip" back on the calipers...lol.

2 things to note that a normal person might not be prepared to have/use. 1 is that you need a 7mm socket. They sell them especially for brake jobs. My stupid hex key set had an 8mm and 6mm but no 7. Be sure you have 1 before you get your tires off like I did



2nd thing is that you'll likely need a C-clamp or a bar clamp or something to put enough pressure on the cylinder/caliper. This was mentioned but your new pads are going to be thicker than your old ones. I was not strong enough to squeeze the calipers open with my hands. However a clamp on there and a little extra pressure and you can hold it open enough to slip it back over the new pads.





Other than that it's pretty much the normal tools anyone would have lying around the house.

 

[ralphc1]

just did rear brake job from hell...$700.both calipers were seized...$700!!! i dont think theyd ever been serviced in 15 years.ffffuuuuaaarrrrrkkkkk

should be straight frwd...unless you find soemthing wrong w the calipers and have to replace them too....ie if the pistons arent retracting because shit got in or they rusted because they were extended out as the pads wore or if you see leakage from the piston seal after you push it in.

if the rotors seized on you can use a bearing puller...or heat it up then hammer it off...may take some swearing

What kind of car that the calipers were so expensive? I looked up calipers on Rock Auto and I can buy Power Stop powder coated calipers for my car for $76 a pair for the front and $88 a pair for the rear. Drilled and slotted rotors are $55 for the front pair and $61 for the rear. Pads are $45 per end for high performance pads so less than $400 for parts.

 

[Nimrod]

Always factor in for something not going right, or breaking or not coming lose etc etc especially if the year is older.. stuck bolts rust corrosion shit snapping .. the list is endless of things that can go wrong when you start.... get a Haynes Manuel and the correct tools.. rear brake pistons usually need winding back .. that will need a tool.

 

[ziggs]

i had to do it so i wouldnt miss work...worked into the night but was lucky that the parts place in these parts delivers.couldve gone cheaper but not if you half to wait....rockauto is the shit man